Search Results

Creator:

Lockwood Greene Engineers, Incorporated  Search this

Lockwood-Greene Company  Search this

Whitman, David  Search this

Greene, Stephen  Search this

Lockwood, Amos  Search this

Former owner:

National Museum of American History (U.S.). Division of History of Technology  Search this

National Museum of American History (U.S.). Division of Mechanical and Civil Engineering  Search this

Extent:

270 Cubic feet (233 boxes, 850 oversize folders)

Type:

Collection descriptions

Archival materials

Linen tracings

Paper flimsies

Business records

Design drawings

Blueprints

Patents

Specifications

Reports

Photograph albums

Photographs

Trade literature

Date:

1784-2004, undated

bulk 1915-1930

Summary:

The engineering firm that became Lockwood Greene was founded by David Whitman, a mill engineer, in 1832. Amos D. Lockwood, a consultant, succeeded Whitman and entered a partnership with Stephen Greene in 1882. The firm specialized in industrial engineering and construction; they designed and built a wide variety of structures and work environments worldwide over the next century. Lockwood Greene was acquired by CH2M HILL in December, 2003. Before its acquisition by CH2MHILL it was reportedly the oldest industrial engineering, construction, and professional services firm in the United States.

Scope and Contents:

The Lockwood Greene records are a comprehensive range of documents related to the appraisal, building, construction, design, evaluation, and engineering of facilities for a variety of clients. The material covers the entire period of industrialization of the United States, and, provides a thorough record of the textile industry, both in New England and the South. Some of the textile mills are documented with unusual completeness, showing water and steam power layouts, factory village plans, and landscaping schedules. A broad range of other building typologies is also covered, including projects with public or retail functions, such as early automobile showrooms, hospitals, apartments and private dwellings, churches, and schools.

In-depth study of the company's earliest history is hampered by a scarcity of records, many of which were lost in the great fire that destroyed Boston's city center in 1872. Nevertheless, graphic and textual evidence does exist within the collection that illuminates these early projects, in addition to the fabric of surviving buildings. The Lockwood Greene records document several commissions that the firm would return to again and again over the course of many decades as clients requested plant additions, upgrades to mechanical and operating systems, and other substantive changes. Researchers are encouraged to examine the blueprints, elevations, and plans for these later additions in order to find illustrations of the firm's earlier interventions at the site. In addition to drawings, other visual evidence for nineteenth-century projects can be found in the company's extensive photo files, which often document structures for which drawings do not exist.

The Lockwood Greene records contain an abundance of graphic and textual evidence for structures designed after 1910 until the 1930s. After this period, visual documentation becomes much more limited. This is partially due to the evolution of drafting tools and information management technologies within the architecture and engineering profession. Lockwood Greene was an early adopter of technological innovations in rendering and data capture, beginning with the introduction of aperture cards and microfilm and extending to the adoption of computer-aided design (CAD) programs. These more modern formats were not part of the acquisition, and, at the time of writing, still reside with the company.

The Lockwood-Greene collection will be of interest to historians of architecture and engineering, as well as those that study the history of business and labor relations. It provides extensive textual and documentary evidence on the evolution and growth of American engineering and the increasing professionalization of the discipline through specialization during the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Rich holdings of architectural drawings, photographs, and specifications provide unparalleled resources that trace the evolution of industrial buildings and their typologies; experimentation with building materials and systems, particularly with regards to fireproofing; and the history of textile manufacture in the United States. In addition, there is also rich visual and documentary evidence of the changing relationships between corporations and their employees through photographs, plans, and designs for company towns and mill villages, as well as through corporate records that illustrate the work culture of Lockwood Greene itself. The Lockwood-Greene collection will be of special interest to historic preservationists as the awareness of the significance of industrial and vernacular buildings continues to grow, and detailed design drawings and other visual material will be of especial value for restoration, rehabilitation, and adaptive-reuse projects.

Arrangement:

The collection is divided into six series.

Series 1, Project Drawings, Renderings, and Plans, 1784-1969, undated

Series 2, Photographs and Slides, 1881-2001, undated

Subseries 2.1: Photo Albums, 1906-1934

Subseries 2.2: Photographic Files, 1881-1956

Subseries 2.3: Spartanburg Office Photographic File, 1948-1974

Subseries 2.4: Spartanburg Office Photographic File, 1919-1999

Subseries 2.5: Project Negatives and Transparencies, 1956-1970

Subseries 2.6: Project Slides and Transparencies, 1985-2001

Subseries 2.7: Project Slides and Transparencies, Culls, 1974-2001

Subseries 2.8: Project Slides and Transparencies, Corporate Photography, 1976-1998

Subseries 2.9: Photograph Album Covers, 1920, undated

Series 3: Job Files, 1872-1957, undated

Subseries 3.1, Specifications, 1913-1942, undated

Subseries 3.2: List of Drawings, 1872-1951, undated

Subseries 3.3: Project Files, 1919-1969, undated

Subseries 3.4: Reports, 1913-1969

Subseries 3.5: Job Cost Records, 1913-1957, undated

Series 4, Corporate Records and History, 1881-2004, undated

Subseries 4.1: Meeting Minutes, 1913-1995

Subseries 4.2: Corporate Files, 1891-2004, undated

Subseries 4.3: Historical Research and Reference Files and Photographs, 1881-1983, undated

Subseries 4.4: Corporate Publications, 1917-2001, undated

Series 5, Non-Lockwood Greene Publications, 1910-1984, undated

Series 6, Audio-Visual, 1964

Biographical / Historical:

Lockwood Greene, one of the nation's oldest engineering firms, traces it roots to 1832, when Rhode Island native David Whitman began a machinery repair service. Riding the wave of the early industrial revolution in textile manufacturing, Whitman added mill design services to his repertoire, which formed the backbone of a flourishing consulting business for the rest of the century. Whitman was one of the first itinerant mill engineers or "doctors" that traveled throughout New England advising various industrialists on the placement, design, and construction of their factories and the layout of the complicated system of machinery and shafting that they contained. His largest commission was the design of the Bates Manufacturing Company complex in Lewiston, Maine, which was incorporated in 1850 and soon became one of the largest textile producers in New England.

Upon Whitman's death in 1858, his unfinished work was assumed by Amos D. Lockwood, a prominent mill agent and astute businessman who had built a name for himself in Connecticut and Rhode Island. The successful completion of the projects at Lewiston brought enough additional demand for Lockwood's services to prompt him to relocate to Boston, where he formally opened an independent consulting office with partner John W. Danielson in 1871. For the next ten years, A.D. Lockwood & Company was involved in a least eight major mill design projects, half of which were for new construction. One of these projects, the design and construction of the Piedmont Manufacturing Company in Greenville (now Piedmont), South Carolina was especially significant and is considered to be a prototype for the Southern textile industry.

In 1882, Lockwood established a new business, Lockwood, Greene and Company, with Stephen Greene, a professionally-trained civil engineer who had joined the firm in 1879. As the firm grew, it expanded its scope as consultants supplying all of the necessary architectural and engineering services a prospective owner needed to initiate, equip, and run a complete plant. Acting as the owners' representative, the company supervised construction and installation but did not directly act as builders or contractors. Lockwood

Greene's objective expertise was legendary and made it a leader in this emergent field. As Samuel B. Lincoln explains in his history of the company:

"The new firm's knowledge and experience in the textile industry enabled it to analyze samples of cloth and, from such samples, to provide everything necessary for a completed plant to make such goods in any desired quantity. It did not at any time act as selling agents for machinery or equipment, neither did it accept commissions or rebates from suppliers: by this policy it maintained a position as impartial and independent engineer." (pages 105-107)

Greene became president of the company upon Lockwood's death in 1884. Under his leadership, the company expanded into additional industries and designed an array of other industrial building types that would prefigure the diversity of later work. In 1893, the company revolutionized American industry by designing and constructing the first factory whose operating power was provided entirely over electric wires from a remote power plant, rather than relying upon a water source or a stockpiled fuel supply. The Columbia Mills project created a great deal of publicity for the firm and was a signal to other manufacturers that there were viable alternatives to the use of steam power.

As changing economic conditions led Lockwood Greene to move away from its traditional reliance upon the textile manufacturing industry, it was very successful at soliciting projects for a wide variety of structures, from newspaper plants and automotive factories to convention halls and schools. After 1900, Lockwood Greene expanded its operations and opened branch offices in other cities, including Chicago, New York, Philadelphia, Cleveland, Detroit, Atlanta, and Charlotte. In 1915, Edwin F. Greene, president and son of Stephen Greene, reorganized the firm as Lockwood, Greene & Company, Incorporated This new entity served as the parent company and controlled three subsidiaries: one to own and operate cotton mills that Greene had acquired; one to manage other companies' textile mills; and one to provide engineering services.

Lockwood Greene expanded its operations tremendously as the textile industry boomed under wartime demand and in the years following. The severe textile depression from 1923 to 1928 caused the collapse of this structure, however, as Lockwood Greene continued to suffer deep losses in the textile mills that it owned. The parent company was dissolved in 1928 and the engineering subsidiary, which had remained profitable, was salvaged as Lockwood Greene Engineers, Incorporated.

After a rocky start with the onset of the Depression, the company began to prosper during the Second World War and its growth continued steadily throughout the next several decades. In the late 1960s, as a result of declining business, the company's headquarters was transferred from Boston to Spartanburg, South Carolina. In 1981, Phillipp Holtzman USA, a subsidiary of Phillipp Holtzman AG of Frankfurt, Germany, acquired a majority interest in Lockwood Greene. In 2003, CH2M Hill, a global provider of engineering, construction, and operations services based in Denver, Colorado, acquired the company.

From its beginnings under David Whitman, Lockwood Greene has become one of the most diversified engineering firms in the United States. The firm is best known as a designer of industrial and institutional buildings, but the company has become a leader in many additional areas in recent years. Lockwood Greene dominates the market in the design and production of the germ- and dust-free "clean room" facilities required by the pharmaceutical industry and micro-electronics manufacturers. The company has also developed expertise in designing integrated security and networking systems for industrial plants, international port facilities, and military installations worldwide.

Banham, Raynor. A Concrete Atlantis: U.S. Industrial Building and European Modern Architecture, 1900-1925. Cambridge: MIT Press, 1986.

Biggs, Lindy. The Rational Factory: Architecture, Technology, and Work in America's Age of Mass Production. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1996.

Bradley, Betsy Hunter. The Works: The Industrial Architecture of the United States. New York: Oxford University Press, 1999.

Greene, Benjamin Allen. Stephen Greene: Memories of His Life, with Addresses, Resolutions and Other Tributes of Affection. Chicago, R. R. Donnelley & Sons Company, 1903.

Heiser, William J. Lockwood Greene, 1958-1968, Another Period in the History of an Engineering Business. Lockwood Greene Engineers, Incorporated, 1970.

Lincoln, Samuel B. Lockwood Greene: The History of an Engineering Business, 1832-1958. Brattleboro, Vermont: The Stephen Greene Press, 1960.

Lockwood Greene Engineers, Incorporated The Lockwood Greene Story: One-Hundred-Fifty Years of Engineering Progress. Spartanburg, South Carolina: Lockwood Greene Engineers, Incorporated; undated.

Related Materials:

Materials at the Smithsonian Instituion Libraries

"[Trade catalogs from Lockwood, Greene & Co.]", Trade Literature at the American History Museum Books, Smithsonian Institution Libraries

Provenance:

This collection was donated by Lockwood Greene, Spartanburg, South Carolina, 1997 (original drawings). An addendum to the collection was donated by CH2M HILL in 2007.

Restrictions:

Collection is open for research but is stored off-site and special arrangements must be made to work with it. Contact the Archives Center for information at archivescenter@si.edu or 202-633-3270.

Rights:

Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.

Topic:

Architects  Search this

Architecture, Commercial  Search this

Architecture, Domestic  Search this

Building materials  Search this

Buildings  Search this

Construction industry  Search this

Company towns  Search this

Textile mills  Search this

Mills  Search this

Manufacturing industries  Search this

Industrial engineering  Search this

Industrial buildings -- Design and construction  Search this

Industrial buildings  Search this

Engineering  Search this

Factories -- Power supply  Search this

Factories -- Design and construction  Search this

Factories  Search this

Cotton textile industry  Search this

Commercial buildings  Search this

Electric power production  Search this

Genre/Form:

Linen tracings

Paper flimsies

Business records

Design drawings

Blueprints

Patents

Specifications

Reports

Photograph albums

Photographs -- 21st century

Photographs -- 20th century

Trade literature

Photographs -- 1890-1900

Citation:

Lockwood Greene Records, Archives Center, National Museum of American History

Sponsor:

Preservation of this collection was made possible in part by a generous gift from CH2M HILL.

Identifier:

NMAH.AC.1113

See more items in:

Lockwood-Greene Records

Archival Repository:

Archives Center, National Museum of American History

GUID:

https://n2t.net/ark:/65665/ep85090342a-0c7e-4667-8b37-fa0e8309b5ac

EDAN-URL:

ead_collection:sova-nmah-ac-1113

Creator:

Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum  Search this

Type:

Conversations and talks

YouTube Videos

Uploaded:

2023-10-03T09:12:24.000Z

YouTube Category:

Education  Search this

Topic:

Design  Search this

See more by:

cooperhewitt

Data Source:

Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum

YouTube Channel:

cooperhewitt

EDAN-URL:

edanmdm:yt_z8punOgSRKw

Creator:

Warshaw, Isadore, 1900-1969  Search this

Extent:

12.77 Cubic feet (consisting of 26.5 boxes, 1 folder, 7 oversize folders, 2 map case folders, 1 flat box (partial), plus digital images of some collection material.)

Type:

Collection descriptions

Archival materials

Print advertising

Periodicals

Publications

Advertising cards

Advertising mail

Printed ephemera

Patterns

Catalogues

Designs (textile)

Sales catalogs

Business cards

Legal records

Contracts

Textiles

Trade catalogs

Exhibition catalogs

Advertising

Advertisements

Mail order catalogs

Business records

Designs

Printed material

Labels

Instructional materials

Trademarks

Legal documents

Trade cards

Legislation (legal concepts)

Ephemera

Samples

Manuals

Sample books

Design patents

Advertising fliers

Illustrations

Catalogs

Sales letters

Business letters

Correspondence

Manufacturers' catalogs

Commercial correspondence

Letterheads

Invoices

Photographs

Sales records

Printed materials

Fabrics

Trade literature

Business ephemera

Receipts

Commercial catalogs

Date:

1784-1970

Summary:

A New York bookseller, Warshaw assembled this collection over nearly fifty years. The Warshaw Collection of Business Americana: Accounting and Bookkeeping forms part of the Warshaw Collection of Business Americana, Subseries 1.1: Subject Categories. The Subject Categories subseries is divided into 470 subject categories based on those created by Mr. Warshaw. These subject categories include topical subjects, types or forms of material, people, organizations, historical events, and other categories. An overview to the entire Warshaw collection is available here: Warshaw Collection of Business Americana

Scope and Contents:

This material is concentrated on the 19th century United States textile manufacture and trade, and the sale of textiles in the form of bale, bolt, roll, and fabric to commercial vendors or consumers as source material to make other goods. The first series contains day-to-day records of dealers and vendors, plus advertising and marketing material. Artisan and home production of goods are virtually not covered but are a couple of incidental publications related to arts, crafts (rugs, weaving, looms), and more refined work such as tapestry. The import/export of textiles is well represented with a large volume of records, which may also provide some insight into the shipping industry.

There is not much on the infrastructure of the industry in the way of directories, trade journals, trade associations, along with manufacturing and plants, though there are a few examples of each. There are virtually no catalogues, except for a few thin ones that were filed by company name. While not extensive, the sample books and swatches offer a glimpse into product lines. Material types offers limited, specific information on certain varieties such as cotton, wool, linen, rayon, etc. Thread might be incidentally present but is not specifically included since there is already a dedicated subject category for it.

There is a healthy sampling of product labels. A handful of intellectual property related documents cover protections of designs, plus patents and trademarks. There is a small bulk of publications related to tariffs and the wool industry.

Clothing patterns, home economics, sewing and seamstresses, household use of textiles (furniture covering, as a cleaning tool, bedding/pillows, etc.) are not covered within this category. Researchers should also look at any of a number of other Warshaw categories, particularly those related to clothing, hosiery, dry goods, furniture, curtains, etc. for period popularity of certain materials and patterns.

Arrangement:

Textiles is arranged in three subseries.

Business Records and Marketing Material

Genre

Subject

Forms Part Of:

Forms part of the Warshaw Collection of Business Americana.

Missing Title

Series 1: Business Ephemera

Series 2: Other Collection Divisions

Series 3: Isadore Warshaw Personal Papers

Series 4: Photographic Reference Material

Provenance:

Textiles is a portion of the Business Ephemera Series of the Warshaw Collection of Business Americana, Accession AC0060 purchased from Isadore Warshaw in 1967. Warshaw continued to accumulate similar material until his death, which was donated in 1971 by his widow, Augusta. For a period after acquisition, related materials from other sources (of mixed provenance) were added to the collection so there may be content produced or published after Warshaw's death in 1969. This practice has since ceased.

Restrictions:

Collection is open for research. Some items may be restricted due to fragile condition.

Rights:

Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.

Topic:

Trade associations  Search this

Patents  Search this

Cotton textile industry  Search this

Fabrics, including spinning and weaving  Search this

Tapestry  Search this

Cotton  Search this

Textile manufacture  Search this

Textile design -- United States -- History -- 20th century -- Sources  Search this

Textile crafts  Search this

Textile  Search this

Retail trade  Search this

Tapestry -- Design  Search this

Textiles -- India  Search this

Labels -- Design  Search this

Textile fabrics in art  Search this

Textile fibers, Synthetic -- Equipment and supplies  Search this

Cotton picking machinery  Search this

Wool, Artificial  Search this

Cotton manufacture  Search this

Textile fabrics  Search this

Cotton picking  Search this

Textile fabrics -- 20th century  Search this

Textile fibers, Synthetic  Search this

Trademarks -- Design  Search this

Silk industry  Search this

Textile fibers, Synthetic Dyeing  Search this

Textile industry  Search this

Cotton industry  Search this

Tapestry -- Technique  Search this

Cotton growing  Search this

Cotton -- 1890-1910  Search this

Textile mills  Search this

Synthetic fabrics  Search this

Consumer goods -- Catalogs  Search this

Textile industry -- 1900-1910  Search this

Genre/Form:

Print advertising

Periodicals

Publications

Advertising cards

Advertising mail

Printed ephemera

Patterns

Catalogues

Designs (textile)

Sales catalogs

Business cards

Legal records

Contracts

Textiles

Trade catalogs

Exhibition catalogs

Advertising

Advertisements

Mail order catalogs

Business records

Designs

Printed material

Labels

Instructional materials

Trademarks

Legal documents

Trade cards

Legislation (legal concepts)

Ephemera

Samples

Manuals

Sample books

Design patents

Advertising fliers

Illustrations

Catalogs

Sales letters

Business letters

Correspondence

Manufacturers' catalogs

Commercial correspondence

Letterheads

Invoices

Photographs

Sales records

Printed materials

Fabrics

Trade literature

Business ephemera

Publications -- Business

Receipts

Commercial catalogs

Citation:

Warshaw Collection of Business Americana Subject Categories: Textiles, Archives Center, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution

Sponsor:

Funding for partial processing of the collection was supported by a grant from the Smithsonian Institution's Collections Care and Preservation Fund (CCPF).

Identifier:

NMAH.AC.0060.S01.01.Textiles

See more items in:

Warshaw Collection of Business Americana Subject Categories: Textiles

Archival Repository:

Archives Center, National Museum of American History

GUID:

https://n2t.net/ark:/65665/ep8452a33db-9793-45c0-890c-a0dc6c7e8893

EDAN-URL:

ead_collection:sova-nmah-ac-0060-s01-01-textiles

Author:

University of Minnesota (Minneapolis-St. Paul campus) University Gallery  Search this

Goldstein Gallery  Search this

Museum für Völkerkunde und Schweizerisches Museum für Volkskunde Basel  Search this

Physical description:

40 pages : illustrations ; 20 cm

Type:

Exhibitions

Place:

Africa, West

Date:

1980

[1980?]

Topic:

Textile fabrics  Search this

Textile industry  Search this

Costume  Search this

Art  Search this

Call number:

NK8889 .W52

NK8889.W52

Data Source:

Smithsonian Libraries

EDAN-URL:

edanmdm:siris_sil_137887

Creator:

Joseph, Katherine  Search this

Hertzberg, Suzanne  Search this

Names:

International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union.  Search this

Roosevelt, Eleanor, 1884-1962  Search this

Roosevelt, Franklin D. (Franklin Delano), 1882-1945  Search this

Extent:

1 Sound disc (33 1/3 RPM)

1 Cubic foot (4 boxes)

Type:

Collection descriptions

Archival materials

Sound discs

Photographs

Place:

Mexico

Date:

1938-1944, 1962

bulk 1941

Summary:

Papers document Katherine Joseph's career as staff photographer for the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. The papers contain negatives and prints taken in Mexico, and some photographs of a White House event in 1938, featuring Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt; and images of American workers on the home front during World War II.

Scope and Contents:

The collection consists of negatives and photographs from Ms. Joseph's career as staff photographer for the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. There are also images taken in Mexico, and some photographs of a White House event in 1938, featuring Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt; images of American workers on the home front during World War II; correspondence and travel notes.

Series 1, Historical Background, 1941, undated, consists of correspondence and travel notes from a photojournalistic trip to Mexico in 1941.

The correspondence is organized into three sections, Tayoltita in Northwest Mexico, the 1941 Colima, Mexico earthquake, and Thelma Goldman. In addition to the correspondence there are typescript captions for some of the photographs and annotated drafts of travel notes detailing the Mexico trip.

Series 2, Photographic Negatives and Prints, [1941?] and undated, consists of negatives and prints for garment workers and the photojournalistic trip to Mexico. The negatives and prints are housed together in 4" x 5" envelope enclosures. Captions and other information about the negative/print is provided on the envelope. The majority of negatives and prints are undated, and there is no arrangement.

Series 3, Photographic Prints, 1938, 1941 and undated, is further divided into four subseries topically: Subseries 1, International Ladies Garment Workers Union; Subseries 2, Labor; Subseries 3, Mexico and Subseries 4, Subjects. The photographs are 8" x 10" black-and-whites taken by Katherine Joseph and some by Harry Rubenstein, another journalist. The photographs are arranged topically. Some of the photographs have captions and/or annotations, and almost all bear a stamp "photo by Katherine Joseph."

Series 4, "Pins and Needles" (audio disc), 1962, consists of one (1) 33 1/3 RPM audio disc from the Pins and Needles twenty-fifth anniversary. Pins and Needles was originally produced by the Cultural Division of the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union under the leadership of Louis Schaffer. The music and lyrics for Pins and Needles was composed by Harold Rome in 1936–1937. The revue had its public debut on November 27, 1937 at the New York Labor Stage, which had been created when the ILGWU leased the Princess Theater and renovated the space for union cultural performances. Because of their factory jobs, cast and crew could rehearse only at night and on weekends, and initial performances were presented only on Friday and Saturday nights. The original cast was made up of cutters, basters, and sewing machine operators. Pins and Needles satirized current events and cultural trends from a pro-union standpoint. Pins and Needles went on to become the longest-running musical of the 1930s, with 1108 New York performances and multiple national tours.

Arrangement:

The collection is divided into five series.

Series 1: Historical Background, 1941, undated

Series 2: Photographic Negatives and Prints, 1941 and undated

Series 3: Photographic Prints, 1938, 1941 and undated

Subseries 3.1: International Ladies Garment Workers Union (ILGWU), undated

Subseries 3.2: Labor, undated

Subseries 3.3: Mexico, undated

Subseries 3.4: Subjects, 1938, 1941, 1944 and undated

Series 4: Photographic Prints and Negatives, 1938-1944

Series 5: Sound Recording, 1962

Biographical / Historical:

Katherine Joseph (1909-1990) was active as a professional photographer from approximately 1937 to 1944. Much of her time was spent as a staff photographer for the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union (ILGWU) in New York City. Her photographs documented workers on the shop floors and union, community, political, and cultural activities. One of Joseph's most notable assignments was a 1938 visit to the White House where she photographed the cast of ILGWU's Broadway revue, "Pins and Needles," performed for President Franklin D. Roosevelt at the invitation of Eleanor Roosevelt. After the Second World War, Joseph left her photographic career to look after her family. In 1941, Joseph undertook a photojournalistic tour of Mexico with two friends, Thelma Goldman, and Andrée Vilas Graham, made possible by the gift of a Willys-Overland Americar to Joseph and her two friends as part of of publicity campaign for the Americar.

Willys-Overland Motors, was an American automobile company founded by John North Willys in 1908 and best known for its design and production of military Jeeps during World War II.

The Americar that Joseph and her friends drove to Mexico was a powder blue Model 441 which they nicknamed "Willy.". Their south-of-the-border road trip held only one obligation, to send back to the United States photographs featuring themselves and "Willy" against the Mexico landscape. Katherine Joseph took photographs and Thelma Goldman and Andrée Vilas-Graham wrote about their travels using a portable typewriter. When the women arrived in Mexico City they secured press passes from the Minister of Information.

Joseph returned to New York as America was gearing up to enter the war and resumed working for the ILGWU in 1942. Her New York images from this period chronicle the Home Front contributions of the garment industry to the war effort. In July 1944 Joseph covered the Democratic National Convention in Chicago, where Franklin D. Roosevelt won an unprecedented fourth-term nomination and Harry S. Truman was chosen as his running mate over the incumbent vice-president, Henry Wallace. This was to be Joseph's last professional assignment before, like millions of American women, she gave up her career to devote herself to family life.

Related Materials:

Materials at Other Organizations

A master's thesis written by Suzanne Herzberg is available through the University of Southern California's Digital Library. The thesis does not form part of the Katherine Joseph Papers held by the Archives Center, National Museum of American History. Author retains sole copyright; use of copyrighted material requires author's permission.

Herzberg, Suzanne. "Photo by Katherine Joseph." (master's thesis, University of Southern California, 2002), 217 pages.

Hertzberg, Suzanne. Katherine Joseph Photographing an Era of Social Significance. Bergamot Books, 2016.

When Katherine Joseph died in 1990, her daughter discovered a trove of memorabilia from her mother's life as a Roosevelt-era photographer for the International Ladies Garment Workers Union (ILGWU). Ms. Joseph's photographs celebrate the golden age of organized labor, from her iconic image of the ILGWU's Pins and Needles White House performance to her sensitive portraits of men and women at work. Her images from a 1941 journey to Mexico reveal a nation caught in the high-stakes political crossfire between the superpowers of the day. She photographed marketplaces, artists' colonies, and Acapulco's posh set as well as a secret gold mine, a historic labor convention, American movie stars on a "Goodwill Fiesta" tour, and a devastating earthquake. Returning to New York, Ms. Joseph documented labor's home front efforts and the historic 1944 Democratic Convention that put Harry Truman on the ballot. Hertzberg's book tells a remarkable story that preserves a legacy of historical, artistic, and feminist significance.

Separated Materials:

Materials in National Museum of American History, Division of Political History (now Division of Political and Military History

Division holds some materials related to the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union

Provenance:

Donated by Suzanne Hertzberg and Richard Hertzberg, daughter and son of Katherine Joseph, February 20, 2007.

Restrictions:

Collection is open for research but is stored off-site and special arrangements must be made to work with it. Contact the Archives Center for information at archivescenter@si.edu or 202-633-3270.

Rights:

Copyright held by donor. Written permission required prior to obtaining reproductions. Consult with Archives Center staff for contact information. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.

Topic:

Textile industry  Search this

Labor unions  Search this

Labor  Search this

Photographers -- New York  Search this

Genre/Form:

Photographs -- Black-and-white photoprints -- Silver gelatin -- 1930-1940

Citation:

Katherine Joseph Collection, Archives Center, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution

Identifier:

NMAH.AC.0944

See more items in:

Katherine Joseph Papers

Archival Repository:

Archives Center, National Museum of American History

GUID:

https://n2t.net/ark:/65665/ep8a8b88197-c3fa-43af-bfec-54d3e30e070c

EDAN-URL:

ead_collection:sova-nmah-ac-0944

Photographer:

Joseph, Katherine  Search this

Names:

International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union.  Search this

Collection Creator:

Joseph, Katherine  Search this

Hertzberg, Suzanne  Search this

Extent:

1 Item (7-7/8" x 10".)

Type:

Archival materials

Black-and-white photographic prints

Place:

New York (N.Y.) -- 1930-1950 -- Photographs

Date:

1942

Scope and Contents:

Women garment workers, New York City. "Every Minute Counts" banner on wall.

Arrangement:

Box No. 5.

Local Numbers:

AC0944-0000051.tif (AC Scan No.)

Restrictions:

Unrestricted research access on site by appointment. Gloves required with unprotected photographs.

Collection Rights:

Copyright held by donor. Written permission required prior to obtaining reproductions. Consult with Archives Center staff for contact information. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.

Occupation:

Garment workers  Search this

Topic:

Labor unions  Search this

Textile industry  Search this

Genre/Form:

Black-and-white photographic prints -- Silver gelatin -- 1900-1950

Collection Citation:

Katherine Joseph Collection, Archives Center, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution

See more items in:

Katherine Joseph Papers

Katherine Joseph Papers / Series 2: Photographic Negatives and Prints / 2.1: Garment workers

Archival Repository:

Archives Center, National Museum of American History

GUID:

https://n2t.net/ark:/65665/ep856387179-2a0b-472d-b2e0-b771972a8705

EDAN-URL:

ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0944-ref571

Photographer:

Joseph, Katherine  Search this

Composer:

Rome, Harold, 1908-  Search this

Names:

International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union.  Search this

United States. Department of Agriculture  Search this

Roosevelt, Franklin D. (Franklin Delano), 1882-1945  Search this

Collection Creator:

Joseph, Katherine  Search this

Hertzberg, Suzanne  Search this

Extent:

1 Item (7-7/8" x 10".)

Type:

Archival materials

Black-and-white photographic prints

Place:

New York (N.Y.) -- 1930-1950 -- Photographs

Date:

1938

Scope and Contents:

President Franklin D. Roosevelt and International Ladies Garment Workers Union (ILGWU) president David Dubinsky with cast members of the ILGWU revue "Pins and Needles." Left to right: Ruth Rubenstein, Rose Newmark, Lynn Jaffe, Millie Weitz, Ann Brown, and Nettie Harari at the White House, March 3, 1938.

Biographical / Historical:

This Broadway revue was originally written for and performed by members of the ILGWU, "who sang out for all the people fighting for jobs, housing, a minimum wage, immigrants' rights and economic justice, and performed sketches that satirized the European fascists and the U.S. right-wing reactionaries who rose up against FDR's New Deal," according to presenters. Subtitled "A Musical Revue in Two Acts, 19 Scenes." Sketches by Arthur Arent, Marc Blitzstein, Emanuel Eisenberg, Charles Friedman, Harold J. Rome and David Gregory. Music and lyrics mostly by Harold J. Rome. First produced in New York 11 June 1936 at the Labor Stage Studios. Opened 27 November 1937 at the Labor Stage Theatre; Second edition (Pins and Needles 1939) opened 20 April 1939, moved 26 June 1939 to the Windsor Theatre; renamed Pins and Needles 1939 in August 1939, renamed Pins and Needles 1940 in September 1939; Third edition (New Pins and Needles) opened 25 November 1939, and closed 22 June 1940 after a total of 1108 performances. (See http://www.guidetomusicaltheatre.com/shows_p/pinsneedles.htm.)

Local Numbers:

AC0944-0000051.tif (AC Scan No.)

Restrictions:

Unrestricted research access on site by appointment. Gloves required with unprotected photographs.

Collection Rights:

Copyright held by donor. Written permission required prior to obtaining reproductions. Consult with Archives Center staff for contact information. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.

Occupation:

Garment workers  Search this

Topic:

Musical theater  Search this

Labor unions  Search this

Textile industry  Search this

Genre/Form:

Black-and-white photographic prints -- Silver gelatin -- 1900-1950

Collection Citation:

Katherine Joseph Collection, Archives Center, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution

See more items in:

Katherine Joseph Papers

Katherine Joseph Papers / Series 3: Photographic Prints / 3.4: Subjects / Pins and Needles

Archival Repository:

Archives Center, National Museum of American History

GUID:

https://n2t.net/ark:/65665/ep8c85d8cf5-17a1-4863-9205-95204f1116c7

EDAN-URL:

ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0944-ref578

Creator:

Saarinen, Lilian Swann, 1912-1995  Search this

Names:

Cambridge Art Center  Search this

Cranbrook Academy of Art -- Faculty  Search this

G Place Gallery (Washington, D.C.)  Search this

Knoll Associates, inc.  Search this

Massachusetts Institute of Technology -- Faculty  Search this

Midtown Galleries (New York, N.Y.)  Search this

Otava Publishing Company  Search this

Reynal & Hitchcock  Search this

Armitage, Merle, 1893-1975  Search this

Crosby, Caresse, 1892-  Search this

Eames, Charles  Search this

Eames, Ray  Search this

Koch, Carl  Search this

Kreis, Henry, 1899-1963  Search this

Milles, Carl, 1875-1955  Search this

Moholy-Nagy, László, 1895-1946  Search this

Moholy-Nagy, Sibyl, 1905-  Search this

Saarinen, Eero, 1910-1961  Search this

Saarinen, Eliel, 1873-1950  Search this

Saarinen, Loja  Search this

Venturi, Robert  Search this

Weese, Harry, 1915-1998  Search this

Extent:

9 Linear feet

Type:

Collection descriptions

Archival materials

Blueprints

Diaries

Illustrations

Sketches

Photographs

Scrapbooks

Date:

circa 1909-1977

Summary:

The papers of Cambridge sculptor and illustrator, Lilian Swann Saarinen, measure nine linear feet and date from circa 1909 to 1977. The collection documents Saarinen's career through correspondence with artists, architects, publishers, and gallery owners; writings and notes, including manuscripts and illustrations for children's books and publications; project and teaching files; financial records; artwork, including numerous project sketches; and photos of Saarinen and her artwork. Saarinen's personal life is also documented through diaries and correspondence with friends and family members, including Eero Saarinen, to whom she was married from 1939-1953.

Scope and Contents:

The papers of Cambridge sculptor and illustrator, Lilian Swann Saarinen, measure nine linear feet and date from circa 1909 to 1977. The collection documents Saarinen's career through correspondence with artists, architects, publishers, and gallery owners; writings and notes, including manuscripts and illustrations for children's books and publications; project and teaching files; financial records; artwork, including numerous project sketches; and photos of Saarinen and her artwork. Saarinen's personal life is also documented through diaries and correspondence with friends and family members, including Eero Saarinen, to whom she was married from 1939-1953.

Biographical material consists of resumes and biographical sketches, as well as a 1951 blueprint for the Eero Saarinen and Associates Office Building in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan.

Correspondence documents Saarinen's personal and professional life through letters to and from Eero Saarinen and other family members, including six letters from Loja Saarinen; correspondence with artists and architects, including Merle Armitage, Charles and Ray Eames, Carl Koch, Henry Kreis, Carl Milles, Laszlo and Sibyl Moholy-Nagy, Robert Venturi, and Harry Weese; and friends and colleagues at the Cranbrook Academy of Art and Knoll Associates. Also documented is Saarinen's business relationship with Midtown Galleries and Caresse Crosby, and publishers and publications including Child Life, Interiors, Otava Publishing Company, and Reynal & Hitchcock, Inc.

Writings and Notes document Saarinen's work on several children's publications, including Picture Book Zoo (1935) and Who Am I? (1946), through correspondence, notes, manuscript drafts, and extensive sketches. This series also includes Saarinen's ideas for other publications and incorporates some early writings and notes, as well as typescripts of her reminiscences about Eliel Saarinen, the Saarinen family, and the Cranbrook Academy of Art.

Diaries consist of bound diary volumes, loose-leaf journal entries, and heavily annotated engagement calendars, documenting Saarinen's personal life, artistic aspirations, and career development from the 1930s-1970s. This material provides a deeply personal view of the emotional landscape of Saarinen's life, her struggles to balance her identity as a working artist with the roles of wife, mother, and homemaker, and the complex, and often competing, relationships within the renowned architectural family into which she married.

Project files document Saarinen's work on book cover designs, federal and post office commissions in Bloomfield, Indiana, Carlisle, Kentucky, and Evanston, Illinois, reliefs for the Crow Island School in Winnetka, Illinois, and other important commissions including the Harbor National Bank Clock in Boston, Massachusetts, the KLM Airlines installation at JFK Airport, the Fountain of Noah sculpture at the Northland Center in Detroit, Michigan, and the interior of Toffenetti's restaurant in Chicago, Illinois. Also documented is her role in designs for the Gateway Arch in St. Louis, with Eero Saarinen.

Teaching files document Saarinen's "Language of Clay Course" which she taught at Cambridge Art Center and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology.

Financial records document exhibition and sales expenses for two exhibitions, including her show at G Place Gallery in 1944.

Printed material consists of clippings about Saarinen and her family, exhibition announcements and catalogs for herself and others, and reference files from the 1930s-1940s, primarily comprising clippings of animals.

Additional printed material documenting Saarinen's career can be found in one of two scrapbooks found in the collection. An additional scrapbook consists of clippings relating primarily to Saarinen's parents.

Artwork comprises extensive sketches, particularly animal and figure sketches, in graphite, crayon, ink, pastel, and watercolor. The sketches demonstrate in particular Saarinen's developing interest in and skill with animal portraiture from her childhood to the 1960s.

Photographs are primarily of artwork and Saarinen's 1944 exhibition at G Place Gallery. Also found are one negative of Saarinen, probably with Eero Saarinen, and a group photo including Lilian, Eero, and Eliel Saarinen with the model for the Detroit Civic Center, circa 1940s.

Arrangement:

The collection is arranged as 11 series.

Missing Title

Series 1: Biographical Material, circa 1930s-1960s (3 folders; Box 1, OV 12)

Series 2: Correspondence, 1920-1974 (1.9 linear feet; Boxes 1-2, 8, OV 12)

Series 3: Writings and Notes, 1920s-1973 (1.3 linear feet, Boxes 2-3, 8, OVs 13-16)

Series 4: Diaries, 1930-1973 (1.4 linear feet, Boxes 3-5, 8)

Series 5: Project Files, 1931-1966 (1.7 linear feet, Boxes 5-6, 8, OVs 17-19)

Series 6: Teaching Files, 1966-1970 (3 folders, Box 6)

Series 7: Financial Records, 1940s-1970s (2 folders, Box 6)

Series 8: Printed Material, circa 1930s-1970s (0.2 linear feet, Box 6)

Series 9: Scrapbooks, circa 1909-1974 (2 folders; Boxes 6, 9)

Series 10: Artwork, circa 1920s-circa 1960s (1.7 linear feet, Boxes 6-7, 9-10, OVs 20-27)

Series 11: Photographs, circa 1940s, 1977 (0.5 linear feet, Boxes 7, 11, OV 27)

Biographical / Historical:

Cambridge artist and sculptor, Lilian Swann Saarinen (1912-1995), studied at the Art Students League with Alexander Archipenko in 1928, and later with Albert Stewart and Heninz Warneke from 1934-1936, before moving to Michigan where she studied with Carl Milles at the Cranbrook Academy of Art from 1936-1940. Saarinen was an accomplished skier and a member of the 1936 US Olympic ski team.

At Cranbrook, Swann met architect Eero Saarinen, whom she married in 1939. She subsequently worked with Saarinen's design group on a variety of projects, including the Westward Expansion Memorial, which later became known as the "Gateway Arch" in St. Louis. Lilian and Eero had a son, Eric, and a daughter, Susie, before divorcing in 1953.

Saarinen, who had developed an affinity for drawing animals in childhood, specialized in animal portraits in a variety of sculptural media. In 1939, she exhibited her sculpture Night, which depicted Bagheera the panther from Rudyard Kipling's Jungle Book, at the World's Fair. The sculpture was placed in the Boston Public Garden in 1986. In the 1930s and 1940s Saarinen was commissioned to work on a variety of architectural projects, including reliefs for post offices in Bloomfield, Indiana, Carlisle, Kentucky, and Evanston, Illinois, and the Crow Island School in Winnetka, Illinois. She also executed commissions for the Harbor National Bank in Boston, KLM (Royal Dutch Airlines) at JFK Airport, the Northland shopping Center in Detroit Michigan, and Toffenetti's Restaurant in Chicago.

Saarinen was a contributing author and illustrator for a variety of publications, including Child Life, Interiors and Portfolio: An Intercontinental Quarterly. In 1935 she illustrated Picture Book Zoo for the Bronx Zoo and in 1946 Reynal & Hitchcock, Inc. published Who Am I?, a children's book which Saarinen wrote and illustrated.

Saarinen taught ceramic sculpture to soldiers for the Red Cross Arts and Skills Unit rehabilitation program in 1945, served on the Visiting Committee to the Museum School at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, from 1959-1964, where she taught ceramics, and later taught a course entitled "The Language of Clay" at the Cambridge Art Center and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. One of Saarinen's private students at Cambridge was her cousin, Edie Sedgwick.

Saarinen died in Cohasset, Massachusetts, in 1995 at the age of 83.

Separated Materials:

The Archives of American Art also holds material lent for microfilming (reels 1152 and 1192) including a scrapbook containing clippings, copies of letters and telegrams received, and reproductions of Saarinen's work. There is a copy of Saarinen's book, "Who Am I?", and three albums containing photographs of Saarinen, photographs and reproductions of her work, a list of exhibitions, quotes about her, and writings by her about sculpture. Lent material was returned to the lender and is not described in the collection container inventory.

Provenance:

Lilian Swann Saarinen donated the collection in 1975. She lent additional materials for microfilming in 1976.

Restrictions:

Use of original papers requires an appointment and is limited to the Archives' Washington, D.C. Research Center. Contact Reference Services for more information.

Rights:

The Archives of American Art makes its archival collections available for non-commercial, educational and personal use unless restricted by copyright and/or donor restrictions, including but not limited to access and publication restrictions. AAA makes no representations concerning such rights and restrictions and it is the user's responsibility to determine whether rights or restrictions exist and to obtain any necessary permission to access, use, reproduce and publish the collections. Please refer to the Smithsonian's Terms of Use for additional information.

Occupation:

Sculptors -- Massachusetts -- Cambridge  Search this

Topic:

Women artists  Search this

Art -- Study and teaching  Search this

Illustrated books, Children's  Search this

Gateway Arch (Saint Louis, Mo.)  Search this

Sculpture, Modern -- 20th century -- United States  Search this

Illustrators -- Massachusetts  Search this

Art, Municipal  Search this

Women sculptors  Search this

Women illustrators  Search this

Function:

Art commissions

Genre/Form:

Blueprints

Diaries

Illustrations

Sketches

Photographs

Scrapbooks

Citation:

Lilian Swann Saarinen papers, circa 1909-1977. Archives of American Art, Smithsonian Institution.

Sponsor:

Funding for the processing and digitization of this collection was provided by The Walton Family Foundation; and John R. & Barbara Robinson and Deborah Schmidt Robinson & Dr. R. Perry Robinson, The Widgeon Point Charitable Foundation.

Identifier:

AAA.saarlili

See more items in:

Lilian Swann Saarinen papers

Archival Repository:

Archives of American Art

GUID:

https://n2t.net/ark:/65665/mw97f1e4305-3886-479a-9db7-48c98fd8d2dd

EDAN-URL:

ead_collection:sova-aaa-saarlili

Designer:

Henry Dreyfuss , American, 1904–1972  Search this

Medium:

B&W Printed Material

Type:

archive

Archive folder

Object Name:

Archive folder

Date:

1968-1972

Credit Line:

Henry Dreyfuss Archive, gift of Various Donors

Accession Number:

Dreyfuss Symbol Sourcebook Working Papers Folder 062

Restrictions & Rights:

Usage conditions apply

See more items in:

Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum Collection

Archives Department

Data Source:

Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum

GUID:

http://n2t.net/ark:/65665/kq49b7bdc7b-c110-4280-afac-220818e0560c

EDAN-URL:

edanmdm:chndm_Dreyfuss_Symbol_Sourcebook_Working_Papers_Folder_062

Author:

Old Sturbridge Village  Search this

Preston, Paula Sampson  Search this

Physical description:

36 p illus 22 cm

Type:

Catalogs

Place:

Massachusetts

Sturbridge

Date:

1969

Topic:

Textile fabrics  Search this

Textile fabrics--Catalogs  Search this

Textile industry--Catalogs  Search this

Call number:

NK8802.S8 O45X

NK8802.S8O45X

Data Source:

Smithsonian Libraries

EDAN-URL:

edanmdm:siris_sil_6256

Creator:

National Cotton Council  Search this

Extent:

28 Cubic feet (48 boxes)

224 Motion picture films

Type:

Collection descriptions

Archival materials

Motion picture films

Photographs

Motion pictures (visual works)

Slides (photographs)

Date:

circa 1945-1999, undated

Summary:

The collection consists primaily of photographs and films created by the National Cotton Council of America (NCC) to document cotton production and use and to support the advocacy and educational work of the organization.

Scope and Contents:

Collection consists of photographs, slides, and 16mm films created by the National Cotton Council of America (NCC) to document cotton production and use and to support the educational and advocacy work of the organization. It is arranged into four series.

Series one contains black and white photographic prints dating primarily from the 1950s-1970s. The photographs document every aspect of cotton farming, from before the seed is planted to the production of finished cloth. Most of these prints illustrate agricultural practices, including land preparation, planting, bedding, plowing, harrowing, drainage, cultivation, stripping, and harvesting. Another group documents pests and infestations – boll weevils, fleas, mites, pink bollworm, hoppers - and the methods of countering them with insecticide and herbicide applications. Other photographs illustrate more general topics, including the history of cotton, research programs, trading, foreign cotton farming, printing, spinning, and weaving. There are also photographs of agricultural equipment manufactured by International Harvester. In addition, a small group of photographs consist of images from movies produced by the National Cotton Council of America (NCC). The photographs were maintained in the order that was created by the National Cotton Council of America (NCC).

Series two include slides and color photographs which date from the 1980s-early 2000s. These materials document many of the same topics as the black and white photographic prints during a later time. Many of the slides were created and assembled for use in presentations. In addition, there are slides of individuals and activities from the National Cotton Council of America (NCC) board meetings and conferences.

Series three consists of publications and reference materials.

Series four contains two hundred and fourteen films that were created by the National Cotton Council of America (NCC) and date from the 1960s-1980s. Films primarily document cotton farming and its versatility and use in consumer goods. A consistent theme and message are to promote cotton to the fashion industry and for home use.

Arrangement:

The collection is arranged into four series.

Series 1, Black and White Photographic Prints, 1945-1970s, undated

Subseries 1.1, Cultivation and Production of Cotton, 1950s-1970s

Subseries 1.2, Film Stills, 1956-1971, undated

Subseries 1.3, Subjects and Events, 1945-1965

Series 2, Slides, 1979-1999, undated

Series 3, Publications, 1954-1981

Series 4, Films, 1953-1996, undated

Biographical / Historical:

The National Cotton Council of America (NCC) is the official trade association of the cotton industry. The NCC was founded in 1939 to promote the interests of cotton farmers, ginners, brokers, and manufacturers from the Southern, cotton-growing states. Its mission evolved over the years as new uses for cotton and its byproducts were found; as synthetic fibers were developed; as fashion tastes changed; as government regulation increased; and as foreign competition in farming and manufacturing grew. The National Cotton Council's website states that its current mission is "to ensure the ability of all United States cotton industry segments to compete effectively and profitably in the raw cotton, oilseed and United States-manufactured product markets at home and abroad." Throughout its existence, the NCC has been the contact point for industry issues affecting its members, legislators in Congress, allied agribusinesses, and consumers.

The National Cotton Council of America (NCC) initially gave this collection to the Cotton Museum at the Memphis Cotton Exchange early in 2008, during the move of the Memphis-based NCC's corporate offices into a much smaller facility. Calvin Turley, president of the Board of the Cotton Museum, accepted the materials with the understanding that he could do with them as he wished. Ultimately, he decided that the collection was outside the scope of the Cotton Museum's mission. Turley offered the collection to the National Museum of American History in the belief that this was "the best possible place in the whole world for it."

Related Materials:

Materials in the Archives Center

Maid of Cotton Records (NMAH.AC.1176)

Warshaw Collection of Business Americana (NMAH.AC.0060)

Peter Paul Haring Papers (NMAH.AC.1014)

Sally Fox Innovative Lives Presentation (NMAH.AC.0646)

William Mason Papers (NMAH.AC.0045)

Anne E. Peterson Stereograph Collection (NMAH.AC.0402)

Southern Agriculture Oral History Project Records (NMAH.AC.0773)

Uriah A. Boyden Papers (NMAH.AC.0982)

Provenance:

Donated to the Archives Center in 2009 by the Cotton Museum.

Restrictions:

Collection is open for research.

Gloves must be worn when handling unprotected photographs and negatives.

Rights:

Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.

Topic:

Cotton textile industry  Search this

Cotton industry  Search this

Cotton growing  Search this

Cotton picking  Search this

Cotton manufacture  Search this

Trade associations  Search this

Textile industry  Search this

Cotton  Search this

Cotton farming  Search this

Genre/Form:

Photographs -- 1950-2000

Motion pictures (visual works)

Slides (photographs) -- 1950-2000

Citation:

National Cotton Council of America Photographs and Film, Archives Center, National Museum of American History.

Identifier:

NMAH.AC.1177

See more items in:

National Cotton Council of America (NCC) Photographs and Film

Archival Repository:

Archives Center, National Museum of American History

GUID:

https://n2t.net/ark:/65665/ep842ca420b-ff48-45ca-8699-a5af5759a074

EDAN-URL:

ead_collection:sova-nmah-ac-1177

Interviewee:

Westphal, Katherine, 1919-  Search this

Interviewer:

Austin, Carole  Search this

Subject:

Farago, Daphne  Search this

Hickman, Pat (Patricia Lynette)  Search this

Karoly, Frederic  Search this

Laky, Gyöngy  Search this

Larsen, Jack Lenor  Search this

Lynn, Greg  Search this

Rossbach, Ed  Search this

Fiberworks, Center for the Textile Arts  Search this

Rhode Island School of Design  Search this

University of California, Davis  Search this

Nanette L. Laitman Documentation Project for Craft and Decorative Arts in America  Search this

Type:

Interviews

Citation:

Quotes and excerpts must be cited as follows: Oral history interview with Katherine Westphal, 2002 September 3-7. Archives of American Art, Smithsonian Institution.

Topic:

Decorative arts  Search this

Fiber artists -- California -- Berkeley -- Interviews  Search this

Women artists  Search this

Women textile artists  Search this

Textile crafts  Search this

Theme:

Craft  Search this

Women  Search this

Record number:

(DSI-AAA_CollID)11788

(DSI-AAA_SIRISBib)238673

AAA_collcode_westph02

Theme:

Craft

Women

Data Source:

Archives of American Art

EDAN-URL:

edanmdm:AAADCD_oh_238673

Interviewee:

Westphal, Katherine  Search this

Interviewer:

Austin, Carole  Search this

Creator:

Nanette L. Laitman Documentation Project for Craft and Decorative Arts in America  Search this

Names:

Fiberworks, Center for the Textile Arts  Search this

Nanette L. Laitman Documentation Project for Craft and Decorative Arts in America  Search this

Rhode Island School of Design  Search this

University of California, Davis -- Faculty  Search this

Farago, Daphne  Search this

Hickman, Pat (Patricia Lynette), 1941-  Search this

Karoly, Frederic, 1898-1987  Search this

Laky, Gyöngy, 1944-  Search this

Larsen, Jack Lenor  Search this

Lynn, Greg  Search this

Rossbach, Ed  Search this

Extent:

58 Pages (Transcript)

Type:

Collection descriptions

Archival materials

Pages

Interviews

Date:

2002 September 3-7

Scope and Contents:

An interview of Katherine Westphal conducted 2002 September 3-7, by Carole Austin, for the Archives of American Art's Nanette L. Laitman Documentation Project for Craft and Decorative Arts in America.

This interview took place in Berkeley, California. Westphal speaks of drawing every day; her rewarding education experience teaching at University of California, Davis' Applied Behavioral Sciences Department; her college encounters; the World Crafts Conference in Vienna in 1980; the significance of her travels in her artwork, including trips to Egypt, Hawaii, Wyoming, and Indonesia among others; her fascination with different types of art; the non-functional aspect of her artwork; the lack of necessity to sell artwork due to her job teaching, and the personal nature of her work not driven by a "craft market"; working for the textile industry; working with agent Frederick Karoly in New York; the considerable collection Daphne Farago has made of both Katherine's and her husband, Ed Rossbach's, artwork; her working environment; her storage condo; her most precious possession, her dogs; remodeling her Berkeley home and installing a glass elevator; the artist community at UC Davis and Fiberworks before it became a school; people she took workshops with at Fiberworks; a chronology of her work from the 1960s to present day; her and Ed's retirement in 1979 and their subsequent trip to Bali; her relationship with the home health care industry when Ed became sick; her development of baskets; her love of color; her artist in residency at Rhode Island School of Design in 1980, learning to work on the Jacquard loom; her very personal collection of postcards, which she created while on trips; her dog stories; several of the shows she has been in, including "Objects: USA" and "American Crafts at the Vatican"; the commission she completed for a hotel in Tokyo; and her copy machines and the various technological advances made during her career. Westphal also recalls Gyöngy Laky, Chere Lai Mah, Pat Hickman, Greg Lynn, Helen and Tio Giambruni, Jack Lenor Larsen and others.

Biographical / Historical:

Katherine Westphal (1919-2018) is a fiber artist in Berkeley, California. Carole Austin is an interviewer, curator, and writer in Orinda, California.

Provenance:

This interview is part of the Archives of American Art Oral History Program, started in 1958 to document the history of the visual arts in the United States, primarily through interviews with artists, historians, dealers, critics and administrators.

Restrictions:

This transcript is open for research. Contact Reference Services for more information.

Topic:

Decorative arts  Search this

Fiber artists -- California -- Berkeley -- Interviews  Search this

Women artists  Search this

Women textile artists  Search this

Textile crafts  Search this

Genre/Form:

Interviews

Sponsor:

Funding for this interview was provided by the Nanette L. Laitman Documentation Project for Craft and Decorative Arts in America.

Identifier:

AAA.westph02

Archival Repository:

Archives of American Art

GUID:

https://n2t.net/ark:/65665/mw90eb7eed0-7263-4e68-a8f7-8c1b28986497

EDAN-URL:

ead_collection:sova-aaa-westph02

Interviewee:

Larsen, Jack Lenor, 1927-2020  Search this

Interviewer:

Fisch, Arline M., 1931-  Search this

Subject:

Rossbach, Ed  Search this

Adamson, Glenn  Search this

University of Washington  Search this

Nanette L. Laitman Documentation Project for Craft and Decorative Arts in America  Search this

Type:

Sound recordings

Interviews

Citation:

Quotes and excerpts must be cited as follows: Oral history interview with Jack Lenor Larsen, 2004 February 6-8. Archives of American Art, Smithsonian Institution.

Topic:

Textile crafts  Search this

Textile industry -- Japan  Search this

Decorative arts  Search this

Theme:

Craft  Search this

Record number:

(DSI-AAA_CollID)13092

(DSI-AAA_SIRISBib)247149

AAA_collcode_larsen04

Theme:

Craft

Data Source:

Archives of American Art

EDAN-URL:

edanmdm:AAADCD_oh_247149

Author:

Wild, John Peter  Search this

Physical description:

xxii, 189 pages illustrations 26 cm

Type:

Books

History

Place:

France

Germany

Great Britain

Rome

Romerska riket

Rome (Empire)

Römisches Reich

Date:

1970

Empire, 30 B.C.-476 A.D

Epoca romana

Topic:

Textile crafts--History  Search this

Textile industry--History  Search this

Textiles et tissus--Industrie et commerce--Histoire  Search this

Industrie textile--Antiquités romaines  Search this

Roman provinces--Economic conditions  Search this

Textile crafts  Search this

Textile industry  Search this

Textilherstellung  Search this

Textilier--historia  Search this

Textilindustri--historia  Search this

Textilmanufaktur  Search this

Civilització romana  Search this

Indústria tèxtil--Història  Search this

Indústria tèxtil  Search this

Manufactures  Search this

Romeinse oudheid  Search this

Textielindustrie  Search this

Nordprovinzen  Search this

Call number:

TS1316 .W66

TS1316.W66

Data Source:

Smithsonian Libraries

EDAN-URL:

edanmdm:siris_sil_4990

Creator:

Liebes, Dorothy  Search this

Names:

Bigelow-Sanford Carpet Company  Search this

E.I. du Pont de Nemours & Company. Textile Fibers Department  Search this

Golden Gate International Exposition (1939-1940 : San Francisco, Calif.)  Search this

Morin, Relman, 1907-1973  Search this

Wright, Frank Lloyd, 1867-1959  Search this

Extent:

24.7 Linear feet

Type:

Collection descriptions

Archival materials

Sound recordings

Scrapbooks

Diaries

Drawings

Interviews

Date:

circa 1850-1973

bulk 1922-1970

Summary:

The papers of weaver, textile designer, and consultant Dorothy Liebes date from circa 1850-1973 (bulk 1922-1970) and comprise 24.7 linear feet. Through biographical material including a sound recording of an interview, family and general correspondence, writings including a draft of Liebes's autobiography, subject files providing detailed records of her influential consulting work, financial and legal files, printed material, scrapbooks, artwork, textile samples, and photographic material picturing a wide variety of career and personal activities, the collection provides rich and extensive documentation of Liebes's career and personal life.

Scope and Content Note:

The papers of weaver, textile designer, and consultant Dorothy Liebes date from circa 1850-1973 (bulk 1922-1970) and comprise 24.7 linear feet. Through biographical material including a sound recording of an interview, family and general correspondence, writings including a draft of Liebes's autobiography, subject files providing detailed records of her influential consulting work, financial and legal files, printed material, scrapbooks, artwork, textile samples, and photographic material picturing a wide variety of career and personal activities, the collection provides rich and extensive documentation of Liebes's career and personal life.

Biographical material consists of awards, biographical notes, membership and identification cards, passports, a will, and a sound recording of a 1945 interview with Liebes.

Correspondence is personal with family and friends, and general with friends and colleagues including artists, and fellow weavers and designers. Notable correspondents include Dorr Bothwell, Daren Pierce, Beatrice Wood, and Frank and Olgivanna Lloyd Wright.

Diaries and calendars record Liebes's busy professional and personal life, with notations on daily activities and, beginning in 1952, detailed notes by staff recording activities at the studio on days when Liebes was absent.

Writings by Dorothy Liebes include notes, drafts, and manuscripts of published and unpublished writings, including an autobiography, speeches, and drafts for an unpublished book on weaving.

Subject files contain correspondence, printed material, photographs, and miscellaneous items in varying combinations, and focus heavily on Liebes's consulting work for businesses in the textile industry, including her work with DuPont, Bigelow-Sanford, Goodall, Dow, and others. The files document the importance of her work as a colorist and show how she successfully adapted craft weaving to machine methods. Furthermore, they record how Liebes used her marketing instincts and broad media appeal to rebrand the image of companies such as DuPont from one of chemistry and utility, to one that represented high style and glamor in durable and practical fabrics that were affordable and desirable in home furnishings. Other subject files document organizations, individuals, and topics of interest to Liebes, including files recording her involvement with arts and crafts organizations, her role as director for the Decorative Arts Display at the Golden Gate Exposition in 1939, her work as director of the Red Cross's Arts and Skills workshop, scattered exhibition records, and files on weavers and weaving. Files on Liebes's extensive promotional work for multiple clients are also included here, as are files documenting Liebes's relationship with Relman Morin, such as correspondence and scattered records of Morin's career as a Pullitzer Prize winning journalist.

Financial and legal records are comprised of accounting records from the 1930s-1940s, financial summaries, investment statements, personal and business inventories, personal and business tax returns, and some legal records.

Printed material includes advertisements, articles, and exhibition announcements and catalogs, recording Liebes's career. This material is supplemented by thirty-three bound scrapbooks of printed publicity material, photographs, and documents recording Liebes's career in substantial depth.

Artwork by Dorothy Liebes consists of designs, feather weavings, a small hooked composition, and tapestry samples. Artwork by others includes prints by Dorr Bothwell, designs by Lawrence J. Colwell, and painted sketches of clothing designs by Daren Pierce. Two linear feet of samples consist primarily of textile swatches primarily designed by Dorothy Liebes Studio, Inc.

Photographic material includes professional portraits of Liebes and others, photos of Liebes at events and parties, with staff and other weavers, at work in her studio, and traveling. Of note are a series of pictures taken at Taliesin West with Frank and Olgivanna Wright, Relman Morin, and others. Photographic material also provides examples of Liebes's design work in homes, hotels, offices, and elsewhere, and shows her work pictured in exhibitions and showrooms. Photographs of other subjects include portraits of unidentified women by Man Ray and Consuela Canaga.

Arrangement:

The collection is arranged as 11 series:

Missing Title

Series 1: Biographical Material, circa 1934-circa 1970 (Box 1, OV 23; 0.28 linear feet)

Series 2: Correspondence, 1922-1973 (Boxes 1-2; 1.5 linear feet)

Series 3: Diaries and Calendars, 1948-1971 (Boxes 2-4; 1.5 linear feet)

Series 4: Writings, 1920-circa 1971 (Boxes 4-5; 1.05 linear feet)

Series 5: Subject Files, circa 1933-1971 (Boxes 5-13, 20, OVs 23, 59; 8.43 linear feet)

Series 6: Financial and Legal Records, circa 1935-1972 (Box 13, 20; 0.6 linear feet)

Series 7: Printed Material, 1897-1971 (Boxes 14, 20-21, OV 38; 1.1 linear feet)

Series 8: Scrapbooks, 1933-1972 (Box 21-22, 24-36; 5 linear feet)

Series 9: Artwork, circa 1920s-circa 1960s (Boxes 14, 22, OVs 23, 39, 42, RD 37; 1.24 linear feet)

Series 10: Samples, circa 1850-1855, circa 1930s-circa 1970 (Boxes 15-16; 2.0 linear feet)

Series 11: Photographic Material, circa 1875, circa 1897-circa 1970 (Boxes 17-19, 36, OVs 38, 40-41; 2.0 linear feet)

Biographical Note:

California and New York weaver, textile designer, and consultant Dorothy Wright Liebes (1899-1972) was known for distinctive textiles featuring bold color combinations and unusual textures achieved through the use of materials such as glass rods, sequins, bamboo, grass, leather, ribbon, wire, and ticker tape. Her work with companies in the synthetic fiber industry to make craft weaving compatible with man-made fabrics and machine looms, produced an innovative and exciting new aesthetic in interior design that was both functional and affordable, and made Liebes a mid-century household name.

Born Dorothy Wright in Santa Rosa, California, Liebes was the daughter of chemistry professor Frederick L. Wright and teacher Bessie Calderwood Wright. She studied art, education, and anthropology at San Jose State Teachers College and the University of California, Berkeley. During her college years, a teacher encouraged her to experiment with weaving and textile design since many of her paintings resembled textiles.

Liebes was a teacher for several years before deciding to pursue a career in textile design. She then studied weaving at Hull House in Chicago and traveled to France, Italy, Guatemala, and Mexico to learn the traditional weaving forms of those cultures. Upon her return to the United States, Liebes opened her first professional studio for weaving and textile design on Powell Street in San Francisco; Dorothy Liebes Design, Inc. was established in 1934, and eventually employed a staff of weavers. Liebes moved her studio to 545 Sutter Street in 1942.

Her first client in the industry was Goodall-Sanford Mills, with whom Liebes worked as a consultant for more than a decade. As her client base expanded, she decided to open a New York studio and maintained both studios until 1948 when she closed her San Francisco operation and relocated to New York City.

Liebes became a color and design consultant to corporations such as DuPont, Dow, and Bigelow-Sanford and tested and promoted newly developed synthetic fibers. She advised textile chemists in the development of fibers that were versatile enough to produce many different textures and worked with engineers and technicians to develop new machines that could reproduce the irregularities of hand-loomed fabrics. Liebes became a sought-after speaker by textile industry and consumer groups, and sometimes taught workshops on color and design.

Liebes's commissions included the United Nations Delegates Dining Room, the Persian Room at the Plaza Hotel and the King of Saudi Arabia's traveling royal throne room. Between 1937 and 1970, Liebes participated in more than thirty solo and group exhibitions at the San Francisco Museum of Art, Museum of Modern Art, de Young Museum, Cranbrook Museum, Detroit Institute of Art, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Museum of Contemporary Crafts, and other venues. She received prizes and awards from institutions and corporations such as Lord and Taylor, Neiman-Marcus, the Paris Exposition, the American Institute of Decorators, the American Institute of Architects and the Architectural League. She was also awarded the Elsie de Wolfe Award and an honorary degree from Mills College in 1948.

Liebes's other notable activities included her work a director of the Decorative Arts Display for the 1939 San Francisco World's Fair, which she credited with establishing her as an authority in the field, and her work as organizer and director of "Arts and Skills," a Red Cross occupational therapy project that included training in weaving for soldiers injured in World War II. In the 1950s, she worked with the Bureau of Indian Affairs, journeying though the southwest to study Indian schools and weaving techniques.

Liebes was married to businessman Leon Liebes from 1928 until their divorce in 1940 and continued to use the name Liebes for the remainder of her life. In 1948, she married Pulitzer prize winning Associated Press special correspondent Relman "Pat" Morin.

During the last year of her life, Dorothy Liebes was semi-retired due to a heart ailment. She died in New York City on 10 September 1972.

Provenance:

Gift of the Estate of Dorothy Liebes through Relman Morin, 1972, and Ralph Higbee, 1973-1974.

Restrictions:

This collection is open for research. Access to original papers requires an appointment and is limited to the Archives' Washington, D.C. Research Center.

Researchers interested in accessing audiovisual recordings in this collection must use access copies. Contact References Services for more information.

Rights:

The Archives of American Art makes its archival collections available for non-commercial, educational and personal use unless restricted by copyright and/or donor restrictions, including but not limited to access and publication restrictions. AAA makes no representations concerning such rights and restrictions and it is the user's responsibility to determine whether rights or restrictions exist and to obtain any necessary permission to access, use, reproduce and publish the collections. Please refer to the Smithsonian's Terms of Use for additional information.

Occupation:

Textile designers -- California -- San Francisco  Search this

Textile designers -- New York (State) -- New York  Search this

Weavers -- California -- San Francisco  Search this

Weavers -- New York (State) -- New York  Search this

Art consultants -- New York (State) -- New York  Search this

Topic:

Women artists  Search this

Women textile designers  Search this

Genre/Form:

Sound recordings

Scrapbooks

Diaries

Drawings

Interviews

Citation:

Dorothy Liebes papers, circa 1850-1973. Archives of American Art, Smithsonian Institution.

Sponsor:

Funding for the processing of the Dorothy Liebes papers was provided by the Terra Foundation for American Art. Funding for the digitization of the collection was provided by the Coby Foundation.

Identifier:

AAA.liebdoro

See more items in:

Dorothy Liebes papers

Archival Repository:

Archives of American Art

GUID:

https://n2t.net/ark:/65665/mw9512b8d71-3c95-4e72-96be-0af0437f2a5f

EDAN-URL:

ead_collection:sova-aaa-liebdoro

Collection Producer:

Lodge, Arthur  Search this

Arthur Lodge Productions.  Search this

Collection Creator:

National Association of Manufacturers  Search this

Extent:

1 Motion picture film

Container:

Reel AC0507-OF0281

Box 11, Tape RV0507.279

Type:

Archival materials

Moving Images

Motion picture films

Date:

1956 March 3

Scope and Contents:

Pennsylvania Topography. Using airplanes to photograph and survey land. Translating photographs into maps. Aero Service Corp., Philadelphia, PA.

California Using fiberglass in instrument cases for the Air Force. Testing luggage for sturdiness and water resistance. H. Koch & Sons, San Francisco, CA.

Ohio Combating tooth decay. Company makes teeth radioactive and tests chlorine compounds to see which best fights decay. Proctor & Gamble, Miami Valley, OH.

Georgia Teaching children about textile industry. Public schools. Dalton, GA.

Reference Video, Box 11

Collection Restrictions:

Collection is open for research but the films are stored off-site. Special arrangements must be made directly with the Archives Center staff to view episodes for which no reference copy exists. Contact the Archives Center for information at archivescenter@si.edu or 202-633-3270.

Collection Rights:

Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees will be charged for reproductions.

Collection Citation:

Industry on Parade Film Collection, 1950-1959, Archives Center, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution.

See more items in:

Industry on Parade Film Collection

Industry on Parade Film Collection / Series 1: Motion Picture Films

Archival Repository:

Archives Center, National Museum of American History

GUID:

https://n2t.net/ark:/65665/ep8965d0ee0-f2ff-4b8c-b5f6-f368e0f88e3b

EDAN-URL:

ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0507-ref536

Photographer:

Wendt, Julius (Albany, N.Y.)  Search this

Watkins, Carleton E., of San Francisco, California  Search this

Lawrence & Houseworth  Search this

Publisher:

Continent Stereoscopic Company (of New York City, New York)  Search this

Series Creator:

Warshaw, Isadore, 1900-1969  Search this

Extent:

12 Stereographs (Silver on paper, mounted.)

Culture:

Washo Indians  Search this

Diné (Navajo)  Search this

Indians of North America  Search this

Pueblo  Search this

Type:

Archival materials

Stereographs

Photographs

Place:

New Mexico -- Stereographs

Alaska -- Stereographs

Arizona -- Stereographs

Date:

ca. 1865-1909

Scope and Contents:

Includes two views of California Indians in non-traditional dress, by Lawrence & Houseworth; three views of families in traditional dress from Watkins New Series; and three by Continent Stereoscopic Company: "Pueblo Indian Girls," "Stalwart Indian of Arizona" (CBA #9753), and men with rifles and dog, "Preparing to attack Indians in New Mexico" (CBA #9752).

Restrictions:

Unrestricted research use on site. Photographs must be handled with white cotton gloves, unless protected by plastic sleeves.

Series Rights:

Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.

Topic:

Totem poles -- Stereographs  Search this

Textile industry and fabrics -- Stereographs  Search this

Genre/Form:

Photographs -- 1870-1900 -- Black-and-white photoprints -- Stereographs

Series Citation:

Warshaw Collection of Business Americana, Archives Center, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution

Sponsor:

Funding for partial processing of the collection was supported by a grant from the Smithsonian Institution's Collections Care and Preservation Fund (CCPF).

See more items in:

Warshaw Collection of Business Americana, Series 2: Other Collection Divisions

Warshaw Collection of Business Americana, Series 2: Other Collection Divisions / 2.2: Stereographs

Archival Repository:

Archives Center, National Museum of American History

GUID:

https://n2t.net/ark:/65665/ep856e471d4-f042-41a9-bf61-989b98a1ff9c

EDAN-URL:

ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0060-s02-ref2812

Author:

Leavitt, Thomas W. 1935-  Search this

Physical description:

xxvii, 120 pages illustrations, genealogical table 22 cm

Type:

Books

Place:

United States

États-Unis

Date:

1969

Topic:

Textile industry  Search this

Textiles et tissus--Industrie et commerce  Search this

Call number:

HD9855 .L43

HD9855.L43

Data Source:

Smithsonian Libraries

EDAN-URL:

edanmdm:siris_sil_2613

Author:

Armstrong, John Borden  Search this

Physical description:

xx, 320 pages illustrations, maps, portraits 24 cm

Type:

Books

History

Place:

New Hampshire

Harrisville (Town)

Harrisville (N.H. : Town)

Harrisville (N.H.)

Harrisville, N.H

Date:

1969

Topic:

Textile factories  Search this

Textile industry--History  Search this

Usines textiles  Search this

Textile industry  Search this

History  Search this

Call number:

F44.H43 A736 1969

F44.H43A736 1969

Data Source:

Smithsonian Libraries

EDAN-URL:

edanmdm:siris_sil_3167