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Dorothy Shaver Papers

Collector:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Creator:
Shaver, Dorothy, 1893-1959  Search this
Donor:
Shaver, Elsie  Search this
Names:
Lord & Taylor  Search this
Roosevelt, Eleanor, 1884-1962  Search this
Extent:
14 Sound recordings
32 Cassette tapes
1 Electronic discs (CD)
6 Cubic feet (22 boxes)
Type:
Collection descriptions
Archival materials
Sound recordings
Cassette tapes
Electronic discs (cd)
Clippings
Photographs
Scrapbooks
78 rpm records
Phonograph records
Professional papers
Date:
circa 1920-1959; undated
bulk 1945-1959
Summary:
This collection contains the personal and professional papers of Dorothy Shaver, one of the best-known female executives in the 1950s; Shaver became the first female president of Lord & Taylor in 1945.
Scope and Contents:
This collection documents the personal and professional life of Dorothy Shaver. Types of materials include correspondence, clippings, biographical narratives, interviews, statements to the press, event programs, speeches, certificates, obituaries, awards and honorary degrees, souvenir publications, advertisements, scrapbooks, planning documents, travel itineraries, notes, invitations, seating lists, photographs, and audio recordings. These materials range in date from 1920 to 1959, but the bulk date is from 1945 to 1959. Those interested in the history of women in business, fashion merchandising, the department store Lord & Taylor, the "American Look" as a fashion trend, and the creation of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art will find this collection useful. An oral history interview was conducted with Elsie Shaver, sister of Dorothy Shaver, in 1973.
Arrangement:
Series 1: Personal Papers, 1920s-1959; undated

Series 2: Professional Papers, 1927-1959; undated

Series 3: Social and Professional Activities, 1928-1959; undated

Series 4: Photographs, about 1920-1959; undated

Series 5: Audio Recordings, 1946-1948; 1956, 1973
Biographical History:
Dorothy Shaver was born on July 29, 1893, in Center Point, Arkansas to, Sallie Borden and James D. Shaver, a lawyer and judge. After graduating from Mena High School in 1910, Dorothy went on to study at the University of Arkansas and the University of Chicago. She moved to New York City with her sister Elsie, an artist, in the 1920s. Acting as an agent for her sister, Dorothy sold some of Elsie's fashion drawings to the department store Lord & Taylor. Dorothy also promoted Elsie's "Five Little Shaver" dolls, which became a major fad after Lord &Taylor introduced them.

Impressed, Lord & Taylor hired Dorothy Shaver to head its Comparative Shopping Bureau, the main purpose of which was to spy on other department stores. Shaver eventually reorganized this department to create a Bureau of Stylists in an effort to improve Lord & Taylor's merchandising strategy and set the pace for style in New York. Her career with Lord & Taylor skyrocketed from there. In 1927, Shaver became a member of Lord & Taylor's board of directors and in 1931, she was named a vice president. In 1937, she was elevated to first vice president and on December 19, 1945, she was named president of Lord & Taylor, becoming one of the first female executives of a large department store. One year later, she was elected to the board of directors of the Associated Dry Goods Corporation, of which Lord & Taylor was a division.

Under Shaver's direction, Lord & Taylor became one of the first department stores to sell clothing specifically designed for different subsets of their customer base; teenaged girls, young adult women, petite women, and career women. She also introduced a bridal shop and a maternity department. She was known for her unique merchandising techniques, such as spraying perfume from the store's marquee in an effort to sell perfume and attract customers. Six suburban branches were opened under her leadership in Manhasset, New York, 1941; Scarsdale, New York, 1948; Millburn, New Jersey, 1949; West Hartford, Connecticut, 1953; Bala-Cynwyd, Pennsylvania, 1954; and Garden City, New York, 1956.

Shaver was also known for her early recognition of American fashion designers. She promoted the "American Look" as a fashion trend, putting American designers on par with French designers. Her efforts fueled the careers of many American designers including Clare Potter, Claire McCardle, and Nettie Rosenstein. In 1937, Shaver established the American Design Awards, an annual event hosted by Lord & Taylor highlighting the achievements of innovators in the fields of design, the arts, housing, education, the sciences, and international relations.

Shaver also helped establish the Museum of Costume Art, which became the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1944. She was chairman of the institute's executive committee and was a member of the Museum's board of trustees. In 1942, as a merchandising consultant to the office of Quartermaster General, Shaver supervised the design of new uniforms and accessories for nurses in the military.

Shaver received numerous citations and awards over the course of her life, including honorary degrees from Syracuse University (1947), Bates College (1949), New York University (1950), Russell Sage College (1951), Lafayette College (1957), and Wheaton College (1957).

Shaver suffered a stroke and died soon after on June 28, 1959; she is buried in Texarkana, Arkansas. Her gravestone has the year of her birth as 1897, four years later than her actual birth date. This error apparently was done on the instruction of her sister, Elsie, because the two women enjoyed misrepresenting their ages.
Bibliographic references:
Lord and Taylor advertisement in: Museum of the City of New York, Paris, and New York. Design Fashion Culture 1925-1940 Monacelli Press, 1928, p. 166;
Related Materials:
Materials in the Archives Center

Freda Diamond Collection, circa 1945-1984 (AC0616)

Estelle Ellis Collection, 1944-1994, #423, Brownie Wise Papers, circa 1928-1968 (AC0509) California Shop Records, 1938-1942 (AC0572)

Setting the Precedent: Four Women Who Excelled in Business, featuring Freda Diamond, Estelle Ellis, Dorothy Shaver, and Brownie Wise.
Related Artifacts:
The Division of Home and Community Life holds artifacts related to this collection. Items include: an inkstand, two pencils, a cigarette case, and a charm bracelet owned by Dorothy Shaver.
Provenance:
This collection was donated to the Museum's Division of Home and Community Life by Dorothy Shaver's sister, Elsie Shaver, in 1973.
Restrictions:
The collection is open for research use.

Researchers must use reference copies of audio-visual materials. When no reference copy exists, the Archives Center staff will produce reference copies on an "as needed" basis, as resources allow.
Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Topic:
Costume design  Search this
Women in business -- 20th century  Search this
Genre/Form:
Clippings -- 20th century
Photographs -- 20th century
Scrapbooks -- 20th century
78 rpm records
Phonograph records
Professional papers
Citation:
Dorothy Shaver Papers, Archives Center, National Museum of American History
Identifier:
NMAH.AC.0631
See more items in:
Dorothy Shaver Papers
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_collection:sova-nmah-ac-0631
Online Media:

Target Stores Collection of Fashion Advertising Using Disabled Models

Creator:
Target Stores  Search this
Extent:
1 Folder
Type:
Collection descriptions
Archival materials
Date:
1990-1991
Summary:
Documents Target Stores use of disabled models in their advertisements from 1990-1991.
Scope and Contents:
Collection documents Target Stores's pioneering use of featuring disabled models in their advertisements. It consists of seven sales circulars dating from 1990-1991 and is contained in one folder.
Arrangement:
Collection arranged in one series.
Biographical / Historical:
The Dayton Company, founded in 1902 as the Dayton Dry Goods Company by American banker and real estate investor, George Draper Dayton (March 6, 1857-February 18, 1938) opened its first Target store in Roseville, Minnesota on May 1, 1962. The new subsidiary was intended to be a discount store chain as opposed to the family run department store chain of its parent company. Company leadership sought a mass market approach to offering consumers quality merchandise at a good price; family-oriented amenities: wide aisles, accessible displays, swift checkout, improved parking; while serving the cultural, social, and economic needs of the community. In the 1990s, the pioneering spirit of the company furthered its goal of serving a more inclusive consumer base and its commitment to the community by using models with disabilities in its advertisements.

Source: corporatetarget.com
Related Materials:
Materials in the Archives Center, National Museum of American History

Elaine Ostroff Universal Design Papers (NMAH.AC1356)

Division of Medicine and Science Disability Reference Collection (NMAH.AC.1319)
Provenance:
Immediate source of acquisition unknown.
Restrictions:
Unrestricted research access on site by appointment.
Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Topic:
People with disabilities  Search this
Consumers with disabilities  Search this
Disabilities  Search this
advertising  Search this
Fashion merchandising  Search this
Fashion  Search this
Citation:
Target Stores Collection of Fashion Advertising Using Disabled Models, 1990-1991, Archives Center, National Museum of American History.
Identifier:
NMAH.AC.0436
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_collection:sova-nmah-ac-0436
Online Media:

Joseph Magnin Poster Collection

Creator:
Magnin, Ellen Newman  Search this
Magnin (Joseph) Stores  Search this
Magnin, Donald  Search this
Brader-Ashley, Betty, 1924-1986  Search this
Extent:
0.3 Cubic feet (1 oversized folder)
Type:
Collection descriptions
Archival materials
Posters
Date:
1963-1968
Scope and Contents:
Collection primarily consists of 103 color and black and white illustrations advertising merchandise for the store. There are also illustrations promoting the staff and store events. In addition, store decorations are also included among the materials. Collection is arranged in three series: Series 1, Merchandise, 1963-1968; Series 2, Fashion Perspectives, 1967; and Series 3, Events and Holidays,1963-1968.,
Arrangement:
The collection is arranged in three series.

Series 1, Merchandise, 1963-1968

Series 2, Fashion Perspectives, 1967

Series 3, Events, circa 1963-1968
Biographical / Historical:
In 1913, Joseph Magnin (son of Isaac Magnin, founder of the I. Magnin stores) founded a department store bearing his name in San Francisco, California. In 1967, the chain reached its peak popularity with over thirty-two stores. It had become one of the premier luxury department store chains in the country. The Magnin family sold the chain to Amfac Corporation in 1969. In September 1984, bankruptcy closed the remaining twenty-four stores.

During the 1960s, Betty Brader (born 1923) became one of the chief illustrators of Joseph Magnin posters; this collection is comprised primarily of her work. She also worked for Neiman-Marcus, Saks, Franklin Simon, and various advertising agencies. Brader won numerous awards throughout her career for her innovative illustrations. Her style of fashion illustration is copied widely today by fashion illustrators. The posters she produced for Joseph Magnin were highly acclaimed in the San Francisco Bay Area. Brader died in 1986 after a long illness.
Related Materials:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History

Estelle Ellis Collection (AC0423)

Dorothy Shaver Papers (AC0631)

Virginia "Jimmie" Booth Collection (AC0729)

NW Ayer Advertising Agency Records (AC0059)

Ming-Ju Sun Garfinckel's Fashion Drawings (AC0897)

California Shop Records (AC0572)

Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection (AC0801)

National Cotton Council Photographs and Film (AC1177)
Provenance:
This collection was donated to the Archives Center of the National Museum of American History in November 1984 by members of the Magnin family.
Restrictions:
Collection is open for research.
Rights:
Reproduction restricted due to copyright or trademark. Museum received non-exclusive rights.
Topic:
advertising  Search this
Fashion merchandising  Search this
Costume design  Search this
Genre/Form:
Posters
Citation:
Joseph Magnin Poster Collection, 1963-1968, Archives Center, National Museum of American History. Gift of Donald and Ellen Newman Magnin
Identifier:
NMAH.AC.0355
See more items in:
Joseph Magnin Poster Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_collection:sova-nmah-ac-0355
Online Media:

Ming-Ju Sun Garfinckel's Fashion Drawings

Creator:
Sun, Ming-ju  Search this
Donor:
Sun, Ming-ju  Search this
Sun, Ming-ju  Search this
Names:
Garfinckel's (Department store)  Search this
Artist:
Ambrose, Amie  Search this
Extent:
2 Cubic feet (5 boxes, 1 map-folder)
Type:
Collection descriptions
Archival materials
Drawings
Catalogs
Advertisements
Tear sheets
Paper dolls
Date:
circa 1972-2002, undated
Summary:
Fashion drawings and the photographic work of Ming-Ju Sun while as an employee of Garfinckel's Department Store and as an independent artist.
Scope and Contents:
Collection consists of the original drawings and photographic work of Ming-Ju Sun as an employee of Garfinckel's Department Store and as an independent artist. It includes original artwork, newspaper advertisement tear sheets, photographic materials, fashion illustration coloring books, fashion catalogs, and other materials that provide information about the fashion industry and its advertising. The materials document women's fashions dating from 1972- to 2002. The collection is a rich resource for advertising art in the 20th century, fashion and costume design, and fashion history.
Arrangement:
The collection is arranged in two series.
Biographical / Historical:
Ming-Ju Sun arrived in the United States from China in the 1940s. In the early 1970s, she studied fine art, taking classes on the history of costume and textiles as well as Chinese and Japanese history at the University of Maryland. While earning her graduate degree she worked as a fashion illustrator for the Garfinckel's department store located in Washington, DC. Beginning in the 1980s, Sun worked as an independent artist creating hand-illustrated paper-doll, sticker, and coloring books for Dover Publishing. Her artwork has been shown in galleries in Washington, DC.

Source: Collecting and Discovering Ming-Ju Sun: Paper-doll Cues to a Family History by Rachel Endoso, December 10, 2014.
Related Materials:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History

Carolyn and Donald Grepke Paper Doll Collection (AC0752)

Joseph Magnin Poster Collection (AC0355)

Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection (AC0801)

Priscilla of Boston Collection (AC0557)

California Shop Records (AC0572)

National Cotton Council of America Photographs and Films (AC01177)

Warchaw Collection of Business Americana (AC0060)
Provenance:
The collection was donated to the Archives Center by Ming-Ju Sun in 2005.
Restrictions:
The collection is open for research use. Researchers must handle unprotected photographs with gloves.
Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Reproduction permission from Archives Center: fees for commercial use. All duplication requests must by reviewed and approved by Archives Center staff.
Topic:
Fashion merchandising  Search this
advertising -- Clothing and dress -- 1970-2010  Search this
advertising -- Clothing trade -- 1970-2010  Search this
advertising -- Fashion -- 1970-2010  Search this
Women -- Employment  Search this
Women in business -- 1970-2010  Search this
Advertising art -- 20th century  Search this
Costume design  Search this
Fashion  Search this
advertising  Search this
Genre/Form:
Drawings -- 20th century
Catalogs
Advertisements
Tear sheets
Paper dolls
Citation:
Ming-Ju Sun Garfinckel's Fashion Drawings, 1972-2002, undated, Archives Center, National Museum of American History
Identifier:
NMAH.AC.0897
See more items in:
Ming-Ju Sun Garfinckel's Fashion Drawings
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_collection:sova-nmah-ac-0897

Joseph S. Klein Archives of the National Association of Men's Sportswear Buyers Collection

Donor:
NAMSB Foundation, Inc.  Search this
Creator:
Klein, Joseph S.  Search this
National Association of Men's Sportswear Buyers  Search this
Extent:
1.6 Cubic feet (5 boxes)
Type:
Collection descriptions
Archival materials
Optical disks
Newsletters
Dvds
Date:
1986-2005.
Scope and Contents:
NAMSB publicity materials, including printed newsletters, and DVDs of NAMSB activities such as fashion shows, video news releases, and trade show directories.
Arrangement:
Divided into 2 series: Series 1: Printed newsletters, 1986-2005; and Series 2: DVDs.
Biographical / Historical:
A non-profit membership association of menswear retailers, formed in 1954.
Provenance:
Donated in 2005 by the NAMSB Foundation, in honor of NAMSB's late Vice-President Joseph S. Klein.
Restrictions:
Collection is open for research.
Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Topic:
Men's clothing  Search this
Fashion merchandising  Search this
advertising  Search this
Fashion  Search this
Sport clothes  Search this
Genre/Form:
Optical disks
Newsletters -- 21st century
DVDs
Newsletters -- 1950-2000
Citation:
National Association of Men's Sportswear Buyers Collection, 1986-2005, Archives Center, National Museum of American History.
Identifier:
NMAH.AC.0901
See more items in:
Joseph S. Klein Archives of the National Association of Men's Sportswear Buyers Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_collection:sova-nmah-ac-0901

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