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Suzanne Jackson five decades editor, Rachel Reese

Title:
Five decades
5 decades
Author:
Reese, Rachel  Search this
Aberjhani 1957-  Search this
Barber, Tiffany E  Search this
Harvey, Melanee C  Search this
neal, julia elizabeth  Search this
Contributor:
Saar, Betye  Search this
Artist:
Jackson, Suzanne 1944-  Search this
Author:
Jackson, Suzanne 1944- Works Selections  Search this
Host institution:
Telfair Museums (Savannah, Ga.)  Search this
Physical description:
160 pages illustrations (chiefly colour), portraits, photographs 25 cm
Type:
Exhibitions
Illustrated works
Essays
Criticism, interpretation, etc
Exhibition catalogs
Place:
United States
Georgia
Savannah
Date:
2019
20th century
21st century
Topic:
African American painting  Search this
African American art  Search this
African American women artists  Search this
Themes, motives  Search this
Data Source:
Smithsonian Libraries
EDAN-URL:
edanmdm:siris_sil_1114370

Priscilla of Boston Collection

Creator:
Kidder, Priscilla C. (costume designer)  Search this
Priscilla of Boston.  Search this
Extent:
4 Cubic feet (14 boxes)
Type:
Collection descriptions
Archival materials
Scrapbooks
Photographs
Clippings
Tear sheets
Correspondence
Sketches
Date:
1940-1996
Summary:
This collection includes letters, sketches, style books, publicity photographs, tearsheets, articles and clippings, scrapbooks, and business documents relating to Priscilla Kidder, the Priscilla of Boston Company, and the American wedding industry. This collection is extraordinarily useful in documenting the development of wedding fashion during the last half of the 20th century. It also illustrates how a small, family-owned, woman-run business grew into a large, nationally known operation.
Scope and Contents:
The primary material in this collection consists of a few letters, mostly relating to fashion shows; photographic portraits of Priscilla Kidder, possibly from her days as a bridal gown model; sketches; and three different types of style books, one for store buyers containing information on ordering and on the various product lines, one for sales associates containing information helpful in selling the gowns and measuring and fitting the client, and one for factory Afloor girls" containing information about the construction of the gowns. Some of the style books were used by the company as "chicken books", i.e., annotated with scratch marks to indicate quantities of orders in each style, which designs were taken off line, etc. They also contain information on type of fabric and ornamentation used, yardage, measurements, available sizes, color, where advertised, and a brief description of each gown. These are arranged by line (i.e., Priscilla, Teeny, Contemporary Romantic) and thereunder by design number. Additionally, the collection contains some assorted internal business documents, but these are merely samplings of different kinds of company records and do not form a cohesive record of the business. The majority of the collection consists of secondary material from the 1950s to the 1990s, including publicity photographs, tear sheets from magazine advertising, newspaper clippings, and scrapbooks containing additional tear sheets and clippings and articles.

This collection is extraordinarily useful in documenting the development of wedding fashion during the last half of the 20th century. It also illustrates how a small, family-owned, woman-run business grew into a large, nationally known operation.
Arrangement:
The collection is divided into ten series.

Series 1: Letters

Series 2: Items related to Priscilla Kidder

Series 3: Design sketches

Series 4: Style books

Series 5: Publicity photographs

Series 6: Advertising tear sheets

Series 7: Articles and clippings

Series 8: Scrapbooks

Series 9: Assorted business documents

Series 10: Miscellany
Biographical / Historical:
Priscilla Kidder actively participated in every aspect of the wedding industry for almost fifty years. She was a nationally known figure whom journalists often referred to as the "Dior" of bridal design. Priscilla Comins Kidder was born in Quincy, Massachusetts in 1918. After finishing high school she opened a small yarn shop in the community. After completing her education in retail design at the New England School of Design, she took a job at R.H. White's department store in Boston, Massachusetts. At R.H. White's she worked her way up from model to sales associate to assistant buyer in the bridal department.

The limited selection of bridal gowns available to women in the early 1940s moved Priscilla Kidder to leave R. H. White in 1945 to start her own bridal salon, which would offer a broader selection of bridal lines to a variety of brides. With the help of her husband, who became the financial consultant, she opened "The Bride's Shop" at 129 Newbury Street. It grossed $10,000 in its first week of business.

Priscilla of Boston Company grew at a rapid pace, and quickly established a national reputation. The company prided itself on innovation, and its designers blended ongoing fashion trends with classic looks to create various dress styles. One difference which distinguished Priscilla of Boston gowns from those of other bridal manufacturers in the 1940s was the decoration on the gowns. Wedding gowns at that time tended to be simple without a substantial amount of ornamentation. Priscilla was the first designer to use large amounts of lace to decorate her gowns.

Over the years Priscilla of Boston has had numerous bridal lines, in addition to the custom work that the company continued to do. In addition to the "Priscilla" line, the company started the "Betsy" line, named for Priscilla Kidder's daughter, which was created in 1960 for the woman who wanted an inexpensive dress. The "Teeny" line, later renamed the "Petite" line, was a more sophisticated title, created for the small woman. The most recent line created, in 1980, was the "Contemporary Romantic" line, a less formal gown for the refined woman. Priscilla of Boston also designed dresses for bridesmaids, mothers of brides, and debutantes.

Priscilla of Boston grew quite large, with stores and factories in Massachusetts and New York. Despite the growth of the business, which at one point manufactured more than two thousand dresses a month, the company always maintained a small, personal atmosphere. The company did not unionize, but instead functioned on a profit-sharing basis. Mrs. Kidder continuously attempted to influence the bridal industry in the United States. She stressed running a business that focused on New England morality and maintaining its family atmosphere. Priscilla Kidder also believed that a bridal showroom should hire a consultant who was near the age of the brides-to-be and was a person whom the customers could relate to.

Priscilla Kidder, along with her sister Natalie, designed the bridal gowns for the company when it first opened in 19434. She soon turned the duty over to a small team of designers. Priscilla Kidder's favorite designer was John Burbidge. His preference for elaborate gowns matched Priscilla Kidder's taste. Although she stopped designing, she stayed involved in the creative process, overseeing each sketch. Priscilla also was directly involved with the stores that marketed her gowns. She traveled throughout the United States to hold fashion shows or visit showrooms. On these trips she advised brides on how to make their weddings the most special day of their lives. She kept a high profile in the media and she created a distinctive image for herself that helped sell her products.

Among Priscilla Kidder's many accomplishments are: being chosen to design Grace Kelly's bridesmaids' gowns for her wedding to Prince Rainier in 1956; having one of her gowns selected by Luci Baines Johnson for her 1966 wedding; and designing Julie Nixon's bridal gown in 1968 and Tricia Nixon's in 1971. Priscilla Kidder credits herself with three innovations within the bridal industry. She was the first to create a petite line for the smaller woman. She also introduced gowns with pale pink coloring beneath the white fabric for a trompe l'oeil effect, and introduced a style with silk shantung. In 1993 Priscilla Kidder sold her family business to Priscilla Kaneb.
Provenance:
Collection donated by Priscilla Kidder, founder of Priscilla of Boston, December 17, 1996.
Restrictions:
Collection is open for research.
Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Topic:
Wedding costume -- 1940-2000  Search this
Women in business -- 1940-2000  Search this
Women costume designers -- 1940-2000  Search this
Fashion design -- 1940-2000  Search this
Costume design -- 1940-2000  Search this
Genre/Form:
Scrapbooks -- 20th century
Photographs -- 20th century
Clippings -- 20th century
Tear sheets -- 1940-2000
Correspondence -- 20th century
Sketches -- 1940-2000
Citation:
Priscilla of Boston Collection, 1940-1994, Archives Center, National Museum of American History.
Identifier:
NMAH.AC.0557
See more items in:
Priscilla of Boston Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
GUID:
https://n2t.net/ark:/65665/ep8a211c23d-8122-4736-b8b6-84ea7d267552
EDAN-URL:
ead_collection:sova-nmah-ac-0557
Online Media:

Viktor Schreckengost : American Da Vinci / Henry Adams ; edited by Sunny McClellan Morton

Author:
Adams, Henry 1949-  Search this
Schreckengost, Viktor 1906-2008  Search this
Morton, Sunny McClellan  Search this
Cleveland Museum of Art  Search this
Subject:
Schreckengost, Viktor 1906-2008  Search this
Cleveland Institute of Art  Search this
Physical description:
vii, 213 pages : illustrations (some color) ; 28 cm
Type:
Biography
History
Place:
Ohio
Cleveland
United States
Date:
2006
©2006
20th century
21st century
Topic:
Designers  Search this
Industrial design--History  Search this
Art  Search this
Call number:
N6537.S362 A4 2006
Data Source:
Smithsonian Libraries
EDAN-URL:
edanmdm:siris_sil_1092520

Ralph Lauren : the man, the vision, the style / Colin McDowell

Author:
McDowell, Colin  Search this
Subject:
Lauren, Ralph  Search this
Physical description:
203 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 29 x 26 cm
Type:
Biography
Place:
United States
Date:
2002
20th century
Topic:
Fashion designers  Search this
Costume design--History  Search this
Data Source:
Smithsonian Libraries
EDAN-URL:
edanmdm:siris_sil_710260

Fashion : the century of the designer, 1900-1999 / Charlotte Seeling

Title:
Century of the designer, 1900-1999
Author:
Seeling, Charlotte  Search this
Morris, Neil  Search this
Morris, Ting  Search this
Waloschek, Karen  Search this
Physical description:
655 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 30 cm
Type:
Books
Date:
2000
C2000
20th century
Topic:
Costume design  Search this
Fashion--History  Search this
Fashion designers--History  Search this
Costume designers  Search this
Call number:
TT507 .S4413 2000
Data Source:
Smithsonian Libraries
EDAN-URL:
edanmdm:siris_sil_742124

Beauty in exile : the artists, models, and nobility who fled the Russian Revolution and influenced the world of fashion / by Alexandre Vassiliev ; translated from the Russian by Antonina W. Bouis and Anya Kucharev

Author:
Vasilʹev, Aleksandr 1958-  Search this
Physical description:
480 p. : ill., ports. ; 32 cm
Type:
Biography
Place:
Russia (Federation)
Foreign countries
Date:
2000
C2000
20th century
Topic:
Fashion designers  Search this
Russians  Search this
Russians--History  Search this
Costume design--History  Search this
Data Source:
Smithsonian Libraries
EDAN-URL:
edanmdm:siris_sil_619730

From Paris to Providence : fashion, art, and the Tirocchi dressmakers' shop / Susan Hay, editor

Title:
Fashion, art, and the Tirocchi dressmakers' shop
Author:
Rhode Island School of Design Museum of Art  Search this
Hay, Susan Anderson  Search this
Subject:
Tirocchi, Anna  Search this
Tirocchi, Laura  Search this
Physical description:
223 p. : ill. (some col.), ports. ; 28 x 25 cm
Type:
Exhibitions
Place:
Rhode Island
Providence
Date:
2000
20th century
Topic:
Costume design--History  Search this
Dressmakers--History  Search this
Women consumers--History  Search this
Data Source:
Smithsonian Libraries
EDAN-URL:
edanmdm:siris_sil_627239

California casual fashions, 1930s-1970s / Maureen Reilly

Author:
Reilly, Maureen E. Lynn  Search this
Physical description:
191, [1] p. : ill. (some col.) ; 29 cm
Type:
Books
Place:
California
United States
Date:
2001
C2001
20th century
Topic:
Clothing trade--History  Search this
Costume design--History  Search this
Costume--History  Search this
Vintage clothing--Collectors and collecting  Search this
Bathing suits--History  Search this
Data Source:
Smithsonian Libraries
EDAN-URL:
edanmdm:siris_sil_684131

Tony Duquette / by Wendy Goodman and Hutton Wilkinson ; foreword by Dominick Dunne

Author:
Goodman, Wendy  Search this
Wilkinson, Hutton  Search this
Dunne, Dominick  Search this
Subject:
Duquette, Tony  Search this
Physical description:
367 p. : ill., ports. ; 31 cm
Type:
Biography
Place:
United States
Date:
2007
20th century
Topic:
Designers  Search this
Interior decorators  Search this
Costume designers  Search this
Set designers  Search this
Data Source:
Smithsonian Libraries
EDAN-URL:
edanmdm:siris_sil_904922

Trust : an installation by Anne Bush. Site : photographs by Timothy P. Ojile. Designing Salome : set and costume designs by Thomas Woodruff

Author:
Bush, Anne  Search this
Ojile, Timothy P Site  Search this
Woodruff, Thomas 1957- Designing Salome  Search this
Contemporary Museum at First Hawaiian Center  Search this
Subject:
Bush, Anne  Search this
Ojile, Timothy P  Search this
Woodruff, Thomas 1957-  Search this
Physical description:
1 folded sheet ([5] p.) : col. ill. ; 28 cm
Type:
Exhibitions
Place:
Hawaii
Date:
2001
C2001
20th century
Topic:
Art, American  Search this
Installations (Art)  Search this
Photography, Artistic  Search this
Theaters--Stage-setting and scenery  Search this
Costume design  Search this
Call number:
N6512 .T785 2001
Data Source:
Smithsonian Libraries
EDAN-URL:
edanmdm:siris_sil_940205

Between taste and travesty : costume designs by William Ivey Long / edited by Polly Koch, Don Quaintance, and Deborah Velders ; texts by Michael Feingold ... [et al.]

Title:
Costume designs by William Ivey Long
William Ivey Long
Author:
Long, William Ivey  Search this
Koch, Polly  Search this
Quaintance, Don  Search this
Velders, Deborah  Search this
Feingold, Michael  Search this
Louise Wells Cameron Art Museum  Search this
Subject:
Long, William Ivey  Search this
Physical description:
71 p. : ill. (some col.), ports. ; 28 cm
Type:
Exhibitions
Pictorial works
Place:
United States
Date:
2007
C2007
20th century
21st century
Topic:
Costume designers  Search this
Costume design--History  Search this
Costume design  Search this
Call number:
PN2067 .B47 2007
Data Source:
Smithsonian Libraries
EDAN-URL:
edanmdm:siris_sil_952629

Non solo Erté = Not only Erté : costume design for the Paris music hall 1918-1940 / Angelo Luerti ; [saggio introduttivo di Vittoria Crespi Morbio]

Title:
Not only Erté : costume design for the Paris music hall 1918-1940
Author:
Luerti, Angelo  Search this
Physical description:
287 p. : ill. (chiefly col.) ; 34 cm
Type:
Books
Place:
France
Paris
Date:
2006
20th century
Topic:
Costume  Search this
Costume designers  Search this
Music-halls (Variety-theaters, cabarets, etc.)--History  Search this
Data Source:
Smithsonian Libraries
EDAN-URL:
edanmdm:siris_sil_983572

Charles Gesmar, 1900-1928 : l'affichiste attitré de Mistinguett / Angelo Luerti

Author:
Luerti, Angelo  Search this
Gesmar, Charles 1900-1928  Search this
Subject:
Gesmar, Charles 1900-1928  Search this
Mistinguett 1875-1956  Search this
Physical description:
191 p. : col. ill. ; 34 cm
Type:
Catalogs
Place:
France
Paris
Date:
2009
C2009
20th century
Topic:
Posters  Search this
Costume design--History  Search this
Music-halls (Variety-theaters, cabarets, etc.)--History  Search this
Data Source:
Smithsonian Libraries
EDAN-URL:
edanmdm:siris_sil_983573

Alexander McQueen : savage beauty / Andrew Bolton ; with contributions by Susannah Frankel and Tim Blanks ; photography by Sølve Sundsbø

Title:
Savage beauty
Author:
Bolton, Andrew 1966-  Search this
McQueen, Alexander 1969-2010  Search this
Frankel, Susannah  Search this
Blanks, Tim  Search this
Sundsbø, Sølve  Search this
Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York, N.Y.)  Search this
Subject:
McQueen, Alexander 1969-2010  Search this
Burton, Sarah 1974-  Search this
Physical description:
240 p. : chiefly ill. (chiefly col.) ; 35 cm
Type:
Exhibitions
Interviews
Place:
Great Britain
Date:
2011
C2011
20th century
21st century
Topic:
Fashion designers  Search this
Costume design--History  Search this
Fashion design--History  Search this
Fashion photography  Search this
Data Source:
Smithsonian Libraries
EDAN-URL:
edanmdm:siris_sil_991660

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