Part I. Going for a Burton: menswear advertising from austerity to affluence, 1945-57 -- The post-war market for men's clothing : The rationing and utility schemes ; Class and earnings -- Menswear advertising: agents, accounts and audiences: 'Will it be seen? Will it be remembered? Will it be "accepted"?' : The IPA social groups, target audiences and consumer categorization -- The economics of press advertising : Newspaper and periodical readerships ; Advertising rates and product placement -- The design and rhetoric of menswear press advertisements : The use of illustration and photography ; The commercial artist and copywriter ; Barratt shoes ; Austin Reed ; Zero and ICI Terylene -- The art versus commerce debate : Eric Newton, Mary Gowing and the Women's Advertising Club ; Taste and class ; The use of type forms and intertextuality of word and image ; The Layton Award ; W.S. Crawford, Ashley Havinden and Daks ; The 'cut-off' body and spectatorship --
Poster publicity and menswear : Regulation of sites and circulation costs ; Poster visibility ; Baracuta ; Moss Brothers ; Abram Games -- Early commercial television and menswear, 1955-60 : ITV and regionalism ; Production and circulation costs ; Burton's Rael Brook shirts -- The impact of consumer psychology and motivation research : Walter Dill Scott ; Mass observation and the Advertising Service Guild survey ; Ernst Dichter ; Vance Packard ; McCann-Erickson and the personality of the product -- 'Feeling with' and 'feeling into': appealing to men and women : Gender and consumption patterns ; Shirts and underwear ; Lyle and Scott y-fronts, visual pleasure and tactility ; Maurice Merleau-Ponty on seeing and touching ; Freud, fetishism and phallic power -- The turn to new consumers and youth culture : Neo-Edwardianism ; Teddy boys and bricolage fashion ; Clothing, colour and decoration ; Burton's and the male peacock --
Part II. Thinking young: menswear advertising and the generation game, 1958-78 : Sedimenting the youth market : Class, earnings and clothing expenditure ; The male peacock ; Boutique culture and mods -- Cinema and television advertising for menswear : Markets and viewers ; Straight versus symbolic selling -- Menswear advertising in newspapers and magazines : Readerships, advertising rates and product placement ; The impact of photography ; The rise of the colour supplements -- Poster publicity and menswear : Visibility and receptivity ; advertising for shirts and Tootal's 'girl' -- 'You bring the body, we've got the clothes': publicity for tailors : John Collier and 'the window to watch' ; The male peacock ; Burton's and brand identity -- From dummies to dandies : Hector Powe and the tailor's dummy ; Austin Reed, the gentleman and the dandy --
Ironing out the creases: artificial fibres and menswear advertising : Du Pont ; Bri nylon ; Polyester ; Acrylic ; Terylene ; Shirts and trousers -- Synthesizing sex: publicity for artificial and natural fibres : Visual pleasure and gender ; Terylene ; Dormeuil mohair -- 'Cloth for Men': wool and the whisper of darker things in Dormeuil's Tonik press campaign, 1968-75 : Dormeuil Tonik ; Transvestism ; Androgyny ; Decadence ; Narcissism ; Style revivalism ; Camp -- Looking good, feeling good: materiality and the interplay of the senses : Dormeuil Tonik ; Austin Reed ; Viyella ; Haptic visuality -- Getting more for your money: menswear publicity and the 1970s recession : The impact of inflation and unemployment on consumer spending : The changing of the guard from suits to casual wear --
Part III. Leader of the pack: jeans advertising since the 1960s : The jeans market and advertising between 1950 and 1985 : Levi's, Wrangler and Brutus press and moving image publicity ; The music soundtrack ; Advertising production costs ; Jeans sales and age groups -- Levi's 501: back to the future? : Bartle, Bogle and Hegarty ; The 'Bath' and 'Laundrette' (1985) campaigns and style revivalism -- Here comes new man, again : Haptic visuality and erotics ; The male body and visual pleasure ; The male consumer, street style and the style press ; 'Dual marketing' to straights and gays -- A soundtrack for consumerism: music, image and myth : Levi's, Wrangler and Lee ; The music token ; The music and image narrative ; Myth --
More than just a number: a new style of advertising for the 1990s : Wrangler, 'Crosstown Traffic' (1990) and vérité ; Levi's, 'Settler's Creek' (1994), photography and the chronotope -- Racial sameness and racial difference : The advertising industry and institutional racism ; Black male models ; Levi's and race ; 'Taxi' (1985), transsexuality and race -- From 'Mothers' to 'Flat Eric': race, gender, age and generation : Mimicry and the black subject in Hush Puppies publicity ; Levi's and age ; The downturn in the jeans market and the shift to experimental advertising ; The rise of laddism, Ben Sherman and Levi's 'Flat Eric' (1999) -- Epilogue : Getting the right fit: objects/images/readers : Menswear publicity as a potent economic force ; Period style ; Underwear publicity and men as sex objects ; Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche press publicity (1998), queer masculinities, myth, menswear and the commodification of bodies -- Appendix I. Advertising agents and menswear accounts, 1945-2000 -- Appendix II. Menswear advertising, 1945-80s: illustrators and photographers -- Appendix III. Television, film and radio advertisements for menswear in Britain, 1955-2000 -- Appendix IV. Levi's press, poster, cinema, radio and television advertising campaigns in Britain, 1968-2000
