From card: "Coarse felt. Ornamented. Illus. in USNM AR, 1891; Pl. 19, fig. 5 (middle); p. 452. Tail of hair and yellow silk." Described on p. 457 of USNM AR for 1891: "Soldier's Hat (Pang-ko-tji). Thick, black, stiffened felt, mixed with horsehair, which shows as a mat on the outside. Resembles a sombrero. Band, a red cord with tassels and two carved tac buttons attached. A long switch of horsehair dyed red is fastened in the crown by a swivel button. Diameter, 15 inches; height, 5 inches. The hat is heavy and resembles the Japanese pot helmet (kabuto); probably it is made thick for defense. The plume (syang-mo) is the distinctive badge of soldiers. Koreans say that this ornament and the sleeves of the cavalry soldiers are dyed red in order to accustom the horses to the sight of blood. Some of the troops still wear these hats."
"Late 19th century. C Black felt and horsehair with red-dyed horsehair B plume. This hat is of thick felt stiffened to achieve a matte finish. Attached to the crown are a red cord with tassels and two carved buttons, one on each side of the band. A long plume of red-dyed horsehair known as sangmo is fastened on top of the crown by a swivel button, which is called a jeongja or jeungja. These ornamental buttons vary according to the wearer's rank. A high-ranking officer would use jade ornamental buttons and real pheasant or peacock plumes Bernadou Field Notes 11 "... Syang-mo [sangmo]. Distinctive badge of soldiers. The Koreans say that this ornament, as well as the red sleeves of the cavalry soldiers are thus colored in order to accustom the horses to the sight of blood. Of horsehair, dyed red, and fastened to the top of the hat by the small leaden slug at the end." Collected in Seoul. Ref: Hough Korean Catalog pl. XIX, middle fig.5; Bernadou Field Notes 11" [from: "An Ethnography of the Hermit Kingdom: The J.B. Bernadou Korean Collection 1884-1885", Chang-su Cho Houchins, 2004, number 72]