Kuba textiles are made of raffia fiber. The foundation cloth is a plain weave, woven by men on an inclined loom. The fibers are softened before weaving by rubbing and, after, by kneading and beating the cloth. The embroidery thread is also raffia, which is dyed before stitching. The embroidery process is done by women. Typically, neither the weft nor the plush is secured with knots.
This piece of raffia cloth is typical of that made by the Shoowa, a Kuba group that lives south of the Sankuru River. It is woven in a style common from 1978 to the late 1980s. In cloth made for their own use, the Shoowa employed an overall balanced pattern, a deep plush and even lines. In cloth produced for the foreign market, the weavers juxtaposed different patterns and wildly varied the fill-in designs. This piece differs markedly from the older export style the Shoowa used for trade with other Kuba and Kuba-related groups, which has large amounts of negative space. In the 1980s, groups other than the Shoowa began making design cloths for export, adding to the changes in colors and patterns.
Description:
Woven cloth embroidered with cut pile and overstitching. The predominant motifs are diamonds and interlocking loops. Black, tan, and natural colors alternate with each other throughout.
Provenance:
Sam Hilu's Primitive Arts Ltd., New York, -- to 1988
Content Statement:
As part of our commitment to accessibility and transparency, the Smithsonian National Museum of African Art is placing its collection records online. Please note that some records are incomplete (missing image or content descriptions) and others reflect out-of-date language or systems of thought regarding how to engage with and discuss cultural heritage and the specifics of individual artworks. If you see content requiring immediate action, we will do our best to address it in a timely manner. Please email nmafacuratorial@si.edu if you have any questions.
Image Requests:
High resolution digital images are not available for some objects. For publication quality photography and permissions, please contact the Eliot Elisofon Photographic Archives at https://africa.si.edu/research/eliot-elisofon-photographic-archives/
