Earrings, particularly twisted gold hoops ubiquitous throughout western Africa since the first millenium AD, are an essential component of any Senegalese jewelry ensemble. Often paired with a matching pendant or necklace, the more ornate patterns reflect their European inspirations, incorporating delicate filigree work and crested with flowers and circlets of twisted wire design. These designs often bore French names, or French derivatives. Dangling versions, sometimes modeled after common necklace designs, are also popular and are known as "long-longs." Others are small hoops composed of coiled or twisted wire or gold meant to be attached permanently to the ear and worn in multiples. Originating in what is now Mali, these earrings are called "dibe" (or "sigi") and in addition to the tiny, permanent version, come in an impressive variety of shapes, sizes, thickness and tightness of twist. The design is the oldest and most popular in Senegal, attesting to its infinite forms.
These wire mesh earrings loosely resemble the basketry seen in French-inspired designs. It is an older design that resurged in popularity in the 2000s. However, this pair is from the mid-20th century, illustrating the waxing and waning of design popularity. The technique required is similar to a weave and the jeweler must twist as he goes, making it a difficult design to master - few jewelers can or will do it.
Description:
Gold (probably alloy or wash) hoop earrings in an openwork basketry design created by weaving and twisting the wire. The earrings have an applied design of a twisted wire circle flanked by two twisted wire leaves on either side of the basketry. The terminus of the hoops is a hammered flat metal cap. Attached to ears by hinge pin.
Provenance:
Marian Johnson, purchased in Dakar, Senegal, 1963-late 20th century to 2012
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