Medium: cotton Technique: mordant and resist painted and dyed plain weave (chintz) Label: cotton, mordant and resist painted and dyed
printed, dyed & painted textiles
India for European market
Museum purchase from Au Panier Fleuri Fund
Research in Progress
Petticoat of glazed chintz with a deep decorative border at the bottom in blue, violet, and shades of red on a white ground. The design is arranged to fit the bottom of the petticoat, and consists of a series of pointed arches made up of floral bands, rising to sharply pointed ovals of blossoms. Between points of arches appear jars of flowers. The arched spaces frame, alternately, clusters of various blooms, or crossed, sharply pointed curved flower bands.The bottom of the skirt is finished by a border 5 3/4 inches wide of small arches, reversed top and bottom, in blues, with red flowers on dotted red ground; intersected by a red band with floral decoration in blue or reserved in white.The painting of the arches is elaborate and a feathery effect is produced by a background of minute foliage forms in red, or dotted grounds of red, or feathery detail in black.
In the open space above the border are detached sprays of natural size flowers, including tulips and roses.
Lined with stiff white linen; one seam. At top set into waistband of green twill tape with tie cords at the side.
The fabric was made in India, the petticoat was made in Europe, probably in The Netherlands.
Charles Lang Freer (1854-1919), purchased from H. Wunderlich & Co., through Thomas Wilmer Dewing (1851-1938), in 1903 
Freer Gallery of Art, gift of Charles Lang Freer in 1920 
 See List of Whistler Objects Transferred to Smithsonian Institution, Freer Gallery of Art and Arthur M. Sackler Gallery Archives. Although this image was purchased from H. Wunderlich & Company in March 1903, it was kept in the Reserve Section until January 1921, when it was transferred to Smithsonian Institution and given a registration number for that year. The registration number was later changed to correspond with the year of purchase.
 See note 1.
 The original deed of Charles Lang Freer's gift was signed in 1906. The collection was received in 1920 upon the completion of the Freer Gallery.
Medium: linen embroidery, cotton cording, cotton foundation Technique: stitched using trapunto technique; embroidered in satin, stem, coral knot, French knot, and eyelet stitches with deflected element work
embroidery & stitching
Section of a petticoat
Gift of Anonymous Donor from the Fraser/Martin Collection
Research in Progress
White on white pattern of symmetrical floral forms stemming from a vase.
Two layers of white cotton fabric are placed one on top of the other with warps and wefts aligned. Heavy cotton yarn is pulled through channels created by parallel rows of running stitches through both layers, giving a padded effect (trapunto). Embroidered details are added in a variety of stitches. In some areas, the back layer of fabric is cut away and deflected element work is added in the top layer.
1 photographic print : black & white ; 4 x 3 centimeters
Bahia (Brazil : State)
Image ID landes_photo_brazil_91-4_0146
Photograph from anthropologist Ruth Landes' 1938-1939 field research on Afro-Brazilians and Candomblé in Brazil in the city of Bahia (now known as Salvador). Handwritten by Landes on verso: "Bahiana dolls showing anaguas. The plump necks are typical."
landes_photo_brazil_91-4_0146, Brazil: Bahian blacks and candomblé [3 of 3], Box 62, Ruth Landes Papers, National Anthropological Archives, Smithsonian Institution