Skip to main content Smithsonian Institution

Search Results

Collections Search Center
493 documents - page 1 of 25

Jantzen Knitting Mills Collection

Creator:
Jantzen, Carl C.  Search this
Names:
Costumes, Division of.  Search this
Jantzen Knitting Mills.  Search this
Portland Knitting Company.  Search this
Zehntbauer, John C.  Search this
Extent:
7 Cubic feet
Type:
Archival materials
Collection descriptions
Business records
Catalogs
Photograph albums
Date:
1925-1977
Summary:
Carl C. Jantzen and John C. Zehntbauer founded the Portland Knitting Company in 1910 as a retail store selling knitted products (i.e. sweaters, hosiery, jackets). Carl Jantzen later invented an automated circular knitting machine that allowed the company to make light-weight materials for swimsuits. In 1916, the company first used the name Jantzen as their trademark and went on to specialize in swimsuits.
Scope and Contents:
This collection has a thorough representation of company newsletters, Jantzen Yarns, and many sample and print catalogues from the 1970s which show the Jantzen clothing and swimwear lines for misses, juniors, and men during that time. There are several company histories written by Zehntbauer which were printed in Jantzen Yarns. The photographs, though few in number, are a good sampling documenting Jantzen headquarters, as well as employees at work. The films, are aimed at store buyers and feature different lines of Jantzen clothing or swimwear, or are training films for sales representatives.

Series 1: SAMPLE CATALOGUES, 1974-1976, includes sample catalogs are for misses, juniors, and men.

Series 2: PUBLICATIONS, 1925-1977, contains issues of Jantzen Yarns (house publication), 1925-1973 (some of the covers of the newsletters include cover art by noted "pin-up" artists George Petty, Jon Whitcomb, Pete Hawley, and Rene Gruau); Intra-Views (company newspaper); and clothing and swimwear catalogues for women, juniors, and men, 1972-1977.

Series 3: COMPANY HISTORY, 1921, 1923-32, 1973, includes photocopies of various company histories written by John A. Zehntbauer; a photocopy of a patent; and an annual report for 1973 (many volumes of Jantzen Yarns [Series 2] have annual reports as an issue).

Series 4: PHOTOGRAPHS, ca. 1920s/30s, consists of a group of photos (originally from an album) showing the main office building, warehouses, and photographs of groups of employees at work or in posed groups.

Series 5: AUDIOVISUAL MATERIALS, 1951, 1976, undated, is divided into two subseries. Subseries 5.1: Films, circa 1951, undated, consists of four films produced for store buyers and sales representatives. Subseries 5.2: Slide Presentation Materials, 1976, includes slides, script, and audiocassette for an in-plant presentation on the Misses Fall 1976 line of Jantzen clothing.
Arrangement:
This collection is arranged into five series.

Series 1: Sample Catalogues, 1974-1976

Series 2: Publications, 1925-1977

Series 3: Ccompany History, 1921, 1923-32, 1973

Series 4: Photographs, circa. 1920s-1930s

Series 5: Audiovisual Materials, 1951, 1976, undated

Subseries 5.1: Films, 1951

Subseries 5.2: Slide Presentation Materials, 1976
Biographical / Historical:
Known primarily for its swimsuits, the Jantzen Knitting Mills are located in Portland, OR. John A. Zehntbauer and Carl C. Jantzen founded the company in 1910. It was then called the Portland Knitting Co. and consisted of a retail store and "a few knitting machines on the second floor" where heavy sweaters, woolen hosiery and other articles of clothing were manufactured.

The two partners were intent on expanding their company, especially by means of a product that would give them an edge in the highly competitive knitting industry. Fortunately, a member of a rowing club approached them one day and asked if they could make him a pair of rowing trunks "of a rib stitch." The success of this item led to the company's specialization in the manufacture of swimsuits in the elastic rib stitch. A patent for this suit was granted in 1921. Carl Jantzen's inventiveness was responsible for the development of an automated circular knitting machine, a derivative of hosiery knitting machines, with a fine needle-bed which produced the light-weight material needed for swimsuits. It also reduced the cost of knitting dramatically.

In 1916 the company first used the name Jantzen as a trademark in advertising, and in 1918 they changed the name officially to the Jantzen Knitting Mills. The name was again changed in 1954 to Jantzen Inc.

Early advertising campaigns were aimed at encouraging swimming. One of the longest used slogans was "the Suit that Changed Bathing to Swimming." An idea for a cut-out sticker of a "diving girl" in a red Jantzen suit and knitted cap was reported in a 1923 issue of Men's Wear N.Y. as "proving popular with auto-drivers--[and that] many windshields carry as many as 3 or 4 of the figure." It also became the Jantzen logo. Billboards were used extensively with artwork by George Petty and McClelland Barclay. Ads in Life and Vogue in 1921 represented the first national advertising of the bathing suits and established the product as "first class."

Before the peak year of 1930, the firm operated factories in Canada, England, and Australia, in addition to exporting to many countries in Europe, South America, and the Phillippines. After the Depression years of 1931-34, a decision was made to license companies in Europe, rather than operating there. The decision was based on the uncertainty of U.S. foreign trade regulations and on the awareness of Zehntbauer, after a trip to Europe, of the political changes taking place.

In 1936 Jantzen made one of its greatest plant investments: a new spinning mill which was considered "the most up to date dying and spinning mill in the U.S." It enabled Jantzen to experiment with different fibers instead of having to purchase them from other mills. In the same year the firm hired their first female designer.

In 1937 serious considerations of making satin latex swimsuits--which were cut and sewn--were resolved in favor of keeping the elastic knit stitch. By 1973 sales and earnings were the highest in the 63 year history. Employees numbered 4,500.

Currently, Jantzen is owned by Vanity Fair Corporation. The company also operates an archives which is limited to serious research inquiries. Some historical information may also be located on their website: http://www.jantzen.com.
Related Materials:
Materials in the Archives Center

Industry on Parade Film Collection (AC0507)

Contains a 1952 film about Jantzen entitled "Suited for Swimming!" which describes the manufacture of swim suits at the company's Portland, Oregon, plant.
Separated Materials:
Related collections in the Division of Home and Community Life. The collection includes bathing and swimming suits and men's, women's and children's clothing (tennis and exercise outfits, blouses, and trousers (1912-1990s). Items have been donated by Jantzen as well as private donors. Also available in the Division are samples of advertisements from the 1940s to 2000 and news articles about Jantzen.
Provenance:
Donated by Jantzen, Inc. in November 1973 and November 1978.
Restrictions:
The collection is open for research use.
Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Reproduction permission from Archives Center: reproduction fees may apply.
Topic:
Bathing suits  Search this
Clothing Manufacturers  Search this
Knitting companies (Mills)  Search this
Textile industry  Search this
Textile fabrics  Search this
Genre/Form:
Business records -- 20th century
Catalogs
Photograph albums -- 20th century
Citation:
The Jantzen Knitting Mills Collection, 1925-1977, Archives Center, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution
Identifier:
NMAH.AC.0233
See more items in:
Jantzen Knitting Mills Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_collection:sova-nmah-ac-0233
Additional Online Media:

Dorothy Shaver Papers

Collector:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Creator:
Shaver, Dorothy, 1893-1959  Search this
Donor:
Shaver, Elsie  Search this
Names:
Lord & Taylor  Search this
Roosevelt, Eleanor, 1884-1962  Search this
Extent:
14 sound recordings
32 cassette tapes
1 electronic discs (cd)
6 Cubic feet (22 boxes)
Type:
Archival materials
Collection descriptions
Sound recordings
Cassette tapes
Electronic discs (cd)
Clippings
Photographs
Scrapbooks
78 rpm records
Phonograph records
Professional papers
Date:
circa 1920-1959; undated
bulk 1945-1959
Summary:
This collection contains the personal and professional papers of Dorothy Shaver, one of the best-known female executives in the 1950s; Shaver became the first female president of Lord & Taylor in 1945.
Scope and Contents:
This collection documents the personal and professional life of Dorothy Shaver. Types of materials include correspondence, clippings, biographical narratives, interviews, statements to the press, event programs, speeches, certificates, obituaries, awards and honorary degrees, souvenir publications, advertisements, scrapbooks, planning documents, travel itineraries, notes, invitations, seating lists, photographs, and audio recordings. These materials range in date from 1920 to 1959, but the bulk date is from 1945 to 1959. Those interested in the history of women in business, fashion merchandising, the department store Lord & Taylor, the "American Look" as a fashion trend, and the creation of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art will find this collection useful. An oral history interview was conducted with Elsie Shaver, sister of Dorothy Shaver, in 1973.
Arrangement:
Series 1: Personal Papers, 1920s-1959; undated

Series 2: Professional Papers, 1927-1959; undated

Series 3: Social and Professional Activities, 1928-1959; undated

Series 4: Photographs, about 1920-1959; undated

Series 5: Audio Recordings, 1946-1948; 1956, 1973
Biographical History:
Dorothy Shaver was born on July 29, 1893, in Center Point, Arkansas to, Sallie Borden and James D. Shaver, a lawyer and judge. After graduating from Mena High School in 1910, Dorothy went on to study at the University of Arkansas and the University of Chicago. She moved to New York City with her sister Elsie, an artist, in the 1920s. Acting as an agent for her sister, Dorothy sold some of Elsie's fashion drawings to the department store Lord & Taylor. Dorothy also promoted Elsie's "Five Little Shaver" dolls, which became a major fad after Lord &Taylor introduced them.

Impressed, Lord & Taylor hired Dorothy Shaver to head its Comparative Shopping Bureau, the main purpose of which was to spy on other department stores. Shaver eventually reorganized this department to create a Bureau of Stylists in an effort to improve Lord & Taylor's merchandising strategy and set the pace for style in New York. Her career with Lord & Taylor skyrocketed from there. In 1927, Shaver became a member of Lord & Taylor's board of directors and in 1931, she was named a vice president. In 1937, she was elevated to first vice president and on December 19, 1945, she was named president of Lord & Taylor, becoming one of the first female executives of a large department store. One year later, she was elected to the board of directors of the Associated Dry Goods Corporation, of which Lord & Taylor was a division.

Under Shaver's direction, Lord & Taylor became one of the first department stores to sell clothing specifically designed for different subsets of their customer base; teenaged girls, young adult women, petite women, and career women. She also introduced a bridal shop and a maternity department. She was known for her unique merchandising techniques, such as spraying perfume from the store's marquee in an effort to sell perfume and attract customers. Six suburban branches were opened under her leadership in Manhasset, New York, 1941; Scarsdale, New York, 1948; Millburn, New Jersey, 1949; West Hartford, Connecticut, 1953; Bala-Cynwyd, Pennsylvania, 1954; and Garden City, New York, 1956.

Shaver was also known for her early recognition of American fashion designers. She promoted the "American Look" as a fashion trend, putting American designers on par with French designers. Her efforts fueled the careers of many American designers including Clare Potter, Claire McCardle, and Nettie Rosenstein. In 1937, Shaver established the American Design Awards, an annual event hosted by Lord & Taylor highlighting the achievements of innovators in the fields of design, the arts, housing, education, the sciences, and international relations.

Shaver also helped establish the Museum of Costume Art, which became the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1944. She was chairman of the institute's executive committee and was a member of the Museum's board of trustees. In 1942, as a merchandising consultant to the office of Quartermaster General, Shaver supervised the design of new uniforms and accessories for nurses in the military.

Shaver received numerous citations and awards over the course of her life, including honorary degrees from Syracuse University (1947), Bates College (1949), New York University (1950), Russell Sage College (1951), Lafayette College (1957), and Wheaton College (1957).

Shaver suffered a stroke and died soon after on June 28, 1959; she is buried in Texarkana, Arkansas. Her gravestone has the year of her birth as 1897, four years later than her actual birth date. This error apparently was done on the instruction of her sister, Elsie, because the two women enjoyed misrepresenting their ages.
Bibliographic references:
Lord and Taylor advertisement in: Museum of the City of New York, Paris, and New York. Design Fashion Culture 1925-1940 Monacelli Press, 1928, p. 166;
Related Materials:
Materials in the Archives Center

Freda Diamond Collection, circa 1945-1984 (AC0616)

Estelle Ellis Collection, 1944-1994, #423, Brownie Wise Papers, circa 1928-1968 (AC0509) California Shop Records, 1938-1942 (AC0572)

Setting the Precedent: Four Women Who Excelled in Business, featuring Freda Diamond, Estelle Ellis, Dorothy Shaver, and Brownie Wise.
Related Artifacts:
The Division of Home and Community Life holds artifacts related to this collection. Items include: an inkstand, two pencils, a cigarette case, and a charm bracelet owned by Dorothy Shaver.
Provenance:
This collection was donated to the Museum's Division of Home and Community Life by Dorothy Shaver's sister, Elsie Shaver, in 1973.
Restrictions:
The collection is open for research use.

Researchers must use reference copies of audio-visual materials. When no reference copy exists, the Archives Center staff will produce reference copies on an "as needed" basis, as resources allow.
Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Topic:
Costume design  Search this
Women in business -- 20th century  Search this
Genre/Form:
Clippings -- 20th century
Photographs -- 20th century
Scrapbooks -- 20th century
78 rpm records
Phonograph records
Professional papers
Citation:
Dorothy Shaver Papers, Archives Center, National Museum of American History
Identifier:
NMAH.AC.0631
See more items in:
Dorothy Shaver Papers
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_collection:sova-nmah-ac-0631
Additional Online Media:

Enoch Steen Collection

Source:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Creator:
J.B. Simpson, Inc.  Search this
Steen, Enoch  Search this
Steen, Richard (merchant)  Search this
Former owner:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Names:
Lewis & Thomas Saltz  Search this
Extent:
1.6 Cubic feet (5 boxes)
Type:
Archival materials
Collection descriptions
Sales catalogs
Office memoranda
Correspondence
Date:
1888-1972
Summary:
Enoch Steen was born in Norway in 1888. His family moved to the United States and settled in Minnesota in 1890. In 1913 he began working with Meyer & Company, a tailor-to-trade business in Chicago. This company had acquired the American Woolen Mills Company from Sears, Roebuck & Co. in 1900. Meyer & Company also sold clothes under the names of Paragon Tailoring Company and the Lincoln Trading Company. Steen's principal duties were sales and advertising.
Scope and Contents:
The collection is organized into two series. The first series consists of material relating to early tailoring companies in existence before the establishment of J.B. Simpson, Incorporated in Chicago. Included are magazines, advertisements for salesmen, photographs of vaudeville actors endorsing the clothes, catalogues of several companies featuring, among the regular line, the jazz style suit. The second series includes articles, correspondence, and memos about the history and organization of J.B. Simpson, Incorporated from 1920 to 1972. In addition, there are measurement instructions and devices for measuring men for suits, manuals, memos and newsletters which were directed to showroom managers and to the salesmen.

This collection should be of particular interest to persons researching men's wear during the late nineteenth and much of the twentieth century through the history of one company, J.B. Simpson, Incorporated of Chicago.
Arrangement:
This collection is divided into two series:

Series 1: Tailoring Companies Before J.B. Simpson, Incorporated, 1888-1918, undated

Series 2: J.B. Simpson, Incorporated Records, 1923-1972, undated
Biographical / Historical:
Enoch Steen was born in Norway in 1888. His family moved to the United States in 1890, and he grew up on a farm in Minnesota. In 1913 he began working with Meyer & Company, a tailor-to-trade business in Chicago. This company, which had acquired the American Woolen Mills Company from Sears, Roebuck & Company in 1900, also sold clothes under the names of Paragon Tailoring Company and the Lincoln Trading Company. Steen's principle duties were sales and advertising.

Meyer & Company concentrated its business in the rural areas of the American South, where it specialized in the "Jazz Style Suit with Dip Fronts." The suits had a dip front coat and peg top trousers with strong, vivid colors and fabric patterns. The term jazz was actually a derogatory one and was used by Steen as a quick means of identification. Nifty, sassy, smart, and foxy were used as descriptors in letters and advertising. They were sold from 1900 through 1920, directly to the customer by salesmen on commission. Salesmen were recruited by the company through classified advertisements in magazines and newspapers. The company provided each salesman samples, a tape measure, self-measurement order blanks, and catalogues. All communication between the salesmen and the company was done by mail.

Steen purchased a list of 1,500,000 names of persons in small hamlets and rural routes in the South from a man who had used the names for liquor sales. A million circulars were sent to prospective agents on the list, and soon the American Woolen Mills Company became the leader in the field. From 1913 to 1921, Steen never saw a man wearing a jazz style suit, although thousands were shipped every month to the deep South. However, it seemed that Meyer and Company would have to go into bankruptcy. Steen formulated the idea of writing to each of the customers whose suits had been returned unclaimed even though they had already paid a five dollar deposit, and offer them the suit at a third off or a quarter the price. This strategy was a big success and brought in half a million dollars.

Steen used the name J.B. Simpson as the letterhead when writing to these customers explaining that he was a jobber in men's suits and woolens. The name Simpson was that of a woman sharing a hospital room with his wife, and the initials J.B. belonged to the office manager of Meyer & Company.

Business was still bad and employees idle. Steen suggested that new customers would have to be drawn from the northern cities and towns where men were on the payrolls of factories and businesses. The South would never be the same and many people had moved north to work. He put an ad in the country edition of the Chicago Sunday Tribune looking for salesman to, "sell $50 suits for $29.50. You keep $4., your comm. No exper. needed." Hundreds of answers were received and twelve new agents were selected to try sample test lines. It was at this point that J.B. Simpson, Incorporated was selected to be the name of the new company.

As the test agents brought in new business from northern communities, application forms went to all who answered. Orders were placed for 1,000 style books, order blanks, and other necessary supplies. These were sent to the agents in December, 1921. By the first week of January, 1922, the shops and workshops were working at full capacity, and at the end of six months a handsome profit had been made. There was no idle overhead, no advertising expense, almost no loss on unclaimed garments, no road men, no jobber expense, no retail cost and practically no selling expense for the $6.50 sample line for each agent. This success continued for the next 18 months. By 1924 the depression was over and many agents returned to their old jobs. Steen had to work hard for business.

Gradually, Steen realized that it would be possible to succeed in Chicago or any large city. Starting with an agent in Chicago who sold many suits, more agents were hired and more orders came in. One of the agents suggested that it would be helpful if there could be a factory showroom in the building where they could meet their customers, write up orders and take delivery. This produced so much business that a manager was employed. A sales and service room was established in the Chicago Loop district which proved even more successful. New York City was the next location for a factory sales and serve room and then Detroit. The Simpson creed, expounded by Enoch Steen in speeches and employee newsletters, was as follows:

Good, better best

Never stop to rest

Til the good is better

And the better, best

From 1922 on, Meyer & Company sold a line under the Simpson name through the Simpson sales organization. An increasing amount of the company's sales volume was secured under the Simpson name. In 1933, some Meyer & Company assets were transferred to J.B. Simpson, Incorporated. In 1937, a group of Chicago businessmen headed by Steen and George Kuh acquired control from the members of the Meyer and Strauss families and assumed active management of the company.

In an in-house newsletter of 1937, mention was made of the Lady Simpson division specializing in ladies tailor made clothes, accounting for seven percent of the company's volume by October 1952. In 1942, Simpson took over the A. Nash Company of Cincinnati, Ohio, its name, sales and manufacturing plant, and retained the Nash Golden Rule Clothes line. During World War II, Simpson Clothing Company manufactured uniforms for the Navy and Coast Guard.

By the middle of 1951, J.B. Simpson, Incorporated had 22 companies and owned branch showrooms in various large cities. From the beginning, the employees in the shops and workrooms were members of the Amalgamated Clothing Workers Union. All salesmen were paid a commission. A profit-sharing plan was put into effect in 1944 for managers, department heads, supervisors, and others who contributed to the company's success, but the result of whose work could not be accurately and separately measured. The payroll for shops and offices averaged 1,000 people. It was assumed that they produced about 150,000 orders a year.

In 1957, Enoch Steen became president of Edwards and Hill. This firm purchased Bullock and Jones, a San Francisco men's clothing store, in September 1947. It also owned Hill store in Chicago and two stores under the name of Lewis and Thomas Saltz in Washington, D.C.
Separated Materials:
The Division of Home and Community Life holds artifacts related to this collection.
Provenance:
This collection was donated to the Smithsonian by Richard Steen(son of Enoch), president of Lewis and Thomas Saltz, Incorporated, in 1973. Transferred to the Archives Center from the Division of Costume, 1995.
Restrictions:
The collection is open for research use.

Physical Access: Researchers must handle unprotected photographs with gloves.
Rights:
Collection items are available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Reproduction permission from Archives Center: reproduction fees may apply.
Topic:
Fashions (men)  Search this
Clothing stores  Search this
Tailoring  Search this
Merchants  Search this
Manufacturing  Search this
Genre/Form:
Sales catalogs
Office memoranda
Correspondence -- 1930-1950
Citation:
Enoch Steen Collection, 1888-1972, Archives Center, National Museum of American History
Identifier:
NMAH.AC.0206
See more items in:
Enoch Steen Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_collection:sova-nmah-ac-0206

Tailoring Companies Before J.B. Simpson, Incorporated

Collection Source:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Collection Creator:
J.B. Simpson, Inc.  Search this
Steen, Enoch  Search this
Steen, Richard (merchant)  Search this
Type:
Archival materials
Date:
1888-1918
undated
Collection Restrictions:
The collection is open for research use.

Physical Access: Researchers must handle unprotected photographs with gloves.
Collection Rights:
Collection items are available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Reproduction permission from Archives Center: reproduction fees may apply.
Collection Citation:
Enoch Steen Collection, 1888-1972, Archives Center, National Museum of American History
Identifier:
NMAH.AC.0206, Series 1
See more items in:
Enoch Steen Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0206-ref17

America's Best-Dressed Woman; the Army Nurse gets a new and necessary wardrobe [article with reproductions of two black and white photographs]

Designer:
Shaver, Dorothy, 1893-1959  Search this
Names:
United States. Army  Search this
Collection Collector:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Collection Creator:
Shaver, Dorothy, 1893-1959  Search this
Collection Donor:
Shaver, Elsie  Search this
Extent:
1 Item (11.7"x5".)
Type:
Archival materials
Photographs
Date:
[ca. 1940-1950]
Scope and Contents:
Photographer and publication unidentified.
Local Numbers:
01063134.tif (AC Scan)
Restrictions:
Unrestricted research use on site by appointment. Photographs must be handled with cotton gloves unless protected by sleeves.
Collection Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Topic:
Military uniforms -- 1940-1950  Search this
Nurses  Search this
Genre/Form:
Photographs -- 1940-1950 -- Reproductions
Collection Citation:
Dorothy Shaver Papers, Archives Center, National Museum of American History
See more items in:
Dorothy Shaver Papers
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0631-ref912

[Lord & Taylor store window : black-and-white photograph.]

Designer:
Shaver, Dorothy, 1893-1959  Search this
Names:
Lord & Taylor  Search this
Collection Collector:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Collection Creator:
Shaver, Dorothy, 1893-1959  Search this
Collection Donor:
Shaver, Elsie  Search this
Extent:
1 Item
Type:
Archival materials
Photographs
Date:
1957
Scope and Contents:
Photograph dated 3-23-57 at bottom. Photographer unidentified.
Arrangement:
In Box 20, folder 2.
Local Numbers:
01063136.tif (AC Scan)
Restrictions:
Unrestricted research use on site by appointment. Photographs must be handled with cotton gloves unless protected by sleeves.
Collection Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Topic:
Show windows  Search this
Department stores  Search this
Fashion -- 20th century  Search this
Genre/Form:
Photographs -- 1950-1960 -- Black-and-white photoprints -- Silver gelatin
Collection Citation:
Dorothy Shaver Papers, Archives Center, National Museum of American History
See more items in:
Dorothy Shaver Papers
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0631-ref913

[Dorothy Shaver : black-and-white photoprint.]

Names:
Shaver, Dorothy, 1893-1959  Search this
Collection Collector:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Collection Creator:
Shaver, Dorothy, 1893-1959  Search this
Collection Donor:
Shaver, Elsie  Search this
Extent:
1 Item (approx. 7" x 6".)
Type:
Archival materials
Studio portraits
Scope and Contents:
Photographer unidentified.
Local Numbers:
01063130 (AC Scan)
General:
In Box 20, Folder 5.
Restrictions:
Unrestricted research use on site by appointment. Photographs must be handled with cotton gloves unless protected by sleeves.
Collection Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Genre/Form:
Studio portraits -- Women
Collection Citation:
Dorothy Shaver Papers, Archives Center, National Museum of American History
See more items in:
Dorothy Shaver Papers
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0631-ref914

Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection

Creator:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Extent:
3 Cubic feet (3 boxes)
23 film reels
Type:
Archival materials
Collection descriptions
Film reels
Slides (photographs)
Scripts (documents)
Date:
1928-1989
Scope and Contents note:
Films, videos, tape recordings, and slides on fashion and clothing.
Arrangement:
The collection is divided into four series.

Series 1: Films, 1920s-1930s, 1970s Series 2: Videocassettes, undated

Series 3: Audio Tapes and Cassettes, 1970s-1990s

Series 4: Slides, 1962,1974-1975
Biographical / Historical:
These materials were transferred from the Division of Costume to the Archives Center.
Related Materials:
Materials in the Archives Center

DuPont Nylon Collection, 1939-1977 (NMAH.AC.0007)

Jantzen Knitting Mills Collection, 1925-1977 (NMAH.AC.0233)

Estelle Ellis Collection, 1941-1994 (NMAH.AC.0423)

Priscilla of Boston Collection, 1940-1996(NMAH.AC.0557)

Maidenform Collection, 1922-1997 (NMAH.AC.0585)

Dorothy Shaver Papers, ca. 1922-1959 (NMAH.AC.0631)

Virginia "Jimmie" Booth Collection (NMAH.AC.0729)
Provenance:
Collection transferred by Division of Social History.,National Museum of American History.
Restrictions:
Collection is open for research and access on site by appointment.
Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Topic:
Fashion -- 20th century  Search this
Costume design -- 1920-1990  Search this
Genre/Form:
Slides (photographs) -- 1950-2000
Scripts (documents)
Citation:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection, 1928-1989, Archives Center, National Museum of American History.
Identifier:
NMAH.AC.0801
See more items in:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_collection:sova-nmah-ac-0801

Hart, Schaffner and Marx Records

Creator:
Hart, Schaffner and Marx.  Search this
Source:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Names:
Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America.  Search this
Abt, Levi  Search this
Hart, Harry  Search this
Hart, Max  Search this
Hillman, Sidney  Search this
Marx, Marcus  Search this
Schaffner, Joseph  Search this
Former owner:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Extent:
6 Cubic feet (17 boxes)
Type:
Archival materials
Collection descriptions
Sales letters
Stylebooks
Account books
Cashbooks
Retailers
Sales catalogs
Business records
Vouchers
Voucher register
Place:
Chicago (Illinois) -- 1900-1960
Illinois -- 1900-1960
Date:
1901-1955
Scope and Contents note:
The collection falls roughly into 4 parts. Series 1 is primarily composed of the company's history and its advertising, including a number of style books. The historical materials highlight the firm's importance in the men's clothing industry; the style books are a valuable record of styles in men's clothing during the first half of the 20th century. The Warshaw Collection of Americana contains a number of Hart, Schaffner and Marx style books from 1903 1928 that duplicate a number in this collection. The miscellaneous records in Box 3 relate primarily to a failed retail store that was placed under new management and reports on naval uniforms and government shipments in the first half of the 1940's. Though obviously incomplete, these records illustrate that the company manufactured military uniforms during World War II as well as civilian clothing.

The Trade Board decisions in Series 2 (February 1921 Febuary 1934) provide a colorful picture of early labor management relations and the everyday incidents in the work place that came before the Trade Board. They are also illustrative of good labor management relations that were developed very early in the history of organized labor.

The company's records, kept in minute detail, in notebooks, by hand, comprise Series 3, the largest part of the collection. They are testimony to the many operations involved in the profitable production of a suit, coat, vest, knickers, or trousers that are part of men's clothing. Large books record items such as tailoring specifications for various articles of clothing, hours worked and earnings for specific operations, piece work lists by article and operation for various shops. There are also account books, cash books, and a voucher register. These appear to be illustrative rather than complete records.

Series 4 consists of 2 boxes of materials of the kind used in the manufacture of men's clothing. They have been kept with the records because Hart, Schaffner and Marx was the first manufacturer to have its salesmen work from swatches of material instead of trunk loads of clothing, an innovation soon followed by other manufacturers.

All of the actual company records are prior to 1955. There are a few pieces of descriptive material of a later date.

The arrangement is chronological where appropriate; otherwise, it is alphabetical. Many of the records in Series 3 are handwritten.
Arrangement:
Divided into 4 series.

Series 1: Company History, Advertising and Style Books

Series 2: Trade Board Decisions, 1921-34

Series 4: Company Records, 1903-1946

Series 4: Material Swatches, undated
Biographical/Historical note:
In 1872, twenty-one year old Harry Hart and his 18-year-old brother Max opened a retail store for men's clothing on State St. in Chicago, Illinois. In 1879 two brothers in law Levi Abt and Marcus Marx joined them. Eight years later Levi Abt left and Joseph Schaffner, a cousin of the Harts, took his place. Thus in 1887 Hart, Schaffner and Marx was born.

The transition from retailing only to manufacturing evolved from clothing that was made to sell in their own store. There was an apparent need for facilities to supply ready made men's clothing to interested retailers and the business prospered.

High quality workmanship and improved employee management relationships were among early goals of the company. A labor agreement of 1911, initiated by Joseph Schaffner, was developed in cooperation with Sidney Hillman, then a cutter in a Hart, Schaffner and Marx factory. As a result Joseph Schaffner emerged as a leader and humanitarian and Sidney Hillman led the way for workers to cooperate with management wherever possible. The 1911 agreement became the model for the men's clothing industry and later for women's clothing. It was the foundation on which the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America was built and helped to rid the United States of sweatshops in the clothing industry. Sidney Hillman in later years won world acclaim as a labor leader and became an advisor on labor relations to President Franklin D. Roosevelt.

Hart, Schaffner and Marx became known for a number of "firsts" in the clothing industry in addition to its peaceful labor relations. The firm introduced a one price policy permitting no cut rates or better prices for any one; it advertised nationally; it introduced the tropical weight suit for summer wear. The company conceived and carried out selling with swatches of materials thus doing away with the practice of salesmen using trunk loads of clothing to demonstrate their line. It was the first manufacturer to offer proportional fit clothing made for men of different build as well as different size. Hart, Schaffner and Marx was also among the first to develop and expand its own retail division. By the firm's 75th anniversary in 1962 it had 78 stores in 37 metropolitan areas inspite of being thought of primarily as a manufacturer. Based in Chicago it did business throughout the United States.
Provenance:
Collection donated by Hart, Schaffner and Marx, 1973.
Restrictions:
Collection is open for research.
Rights:
Probable copyright and trademark restrictions.
Topic:
Clothing trade -- 1900-1960  Search this
Clothing stores -- 1900-1960  Search this
Industrial relations  Search this
Men's clothing industry -- 1900-1960  Search this
Men's clothing  Search this
Retail trade -- 1900-1960  Search this
Trade-unions -- 1900-1960  Search this
Sweatshops  Search this
Genre/Form:
Sales letters
Stylebooks -- 1900-1960
Account books -- 20th century
Cashbooks -- 1900-1950
Retailers -- 1900-1960
Sales catalogs -- 1900-1960
Business records -- 20th century
Vouchers -- 1900-1960
Voucher register
Citation:
Hart, Schaffner and Marx Records, 1901-1955, Archives Center, National Museum of American History.
Identifier:
NMAH.AC.0426
See more items in:
Hart, Schaffner and Marx Records
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_collection:sova-nmah-ac-0426
Additional Online Media:

Films

Collection Creator:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Type:
Archival materials
Date:
1920s-1930s, 1970s
Collection Restrictions:
Collection is open for research and access on site by appointment.
Collection Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Collection Citation:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection, 1928-1989, Archives Center, National Museum of American History.
Identifier:
NMAH.AC.0801, Series 1
See more items in:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0801-ref512

DuPont Industrial Fashion Films

Collection Creator:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Type:
Archival materials
Date:
circa 1970s
Collection Restrictions:
Collection is open for research and access on site by appointment.
Collection Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Collection Citation:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection, 1928-1989, Archives Center, National Museum of American History.
Identifier:
NMAH.AC.0801, Subseries 1.1
See more items in:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0801-ref513

Pret-A-Porter

Collection Creator:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Extent:
1 Reel (16mm color composite optical track print, 140 feet )
Container:
Reel OF801.1
Type:
Archival materials
Moving Images
Reels
Scope and Contents:
Producer: DuPont

No credits.

Note on box: Ungaro Pret-A-Porter

Leader: Mercury News Film Ungaro - DuPont
Collection Restrictions:
Collection is open for research and access on site by appointment.
Collection Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Collection Citation:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection, 1928-1989, Archives Center, National Museum of American History.
See more items in:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0801-ref514

American Designer Fashions for Spring 71

Collection Creator:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Extent:
1 Reel (16mm color composite optical track print, 175 feet)
Container:
Reel OF801.2
Type:
Archival materials
Moving Images
Reels
Date:
circa 1971
Scope and Contents:
Descriptive Summary: Features models in the desert showing off new fashions. Creator: Producer: Produced by DuPont.

Notes: Featuring: Boutique Donald Brooks, Branell, George Bullock, Bymini, Ginovi, Kleibacker, Lisa meril, Robert David Morton, Leo Narducci, Posh, Richard Tam, Travilla, Levino Verna. Spring fashions in Qiana nylon.

Leader: M71-1086 Assoc. Film Consult Mercury Newsfilm: Dupont Qiana Amer. Designer Fashions for Spring 1971.

Box: American Designer Fashions for Spring >71.
Collection Restrictions:
Collection is open for research and access on site by appointment.
Collection Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Collection Citation:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection, 1928-1989, Archives Center, National Museum of American History.
See more items in:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0801-ref515

Around the World Holiday Caper

Collection Creator:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Extent:
1 Reel (16mm color composite optical track print, 600 feet)
Container:
Reel OF801.3
Type:
Archival materials
Moving Images
Reels
Date:
circa 1971
Scope and Contents:
Descriptive Summary: Features models on assignment in Rome, India, Hong Kong, Australia, and Fiji.

Producer: DuPont

Notes: Qiana nylon for DuPont. Filmed in cooperation with BOAC. All other credits differ for each segment.

Rome: Fashions by Maxine de La Falaise for Blousecraft. John Haggins for Stella Fagin and Dominic Rompollo.

India: Fashions by Gayle Kirkpatrick (1935 - 1997) for Bymini (Tupelo, Miss. born fashion designer who was known for his youthful, modern approach to American sportswear). John Haggins for Stella Fagin.

Hong Kong: Fashions by Maxine de La Falaise for Blousecraft. John Haggins for Stella Fagin. Bill Tice for Royal Robes.

Australia: Fashions by Maxine de La Falaise for Blousecraft. Jack Bodi for Concept VII and Robert David Morton.

Fiji: Fashions by Gayle Kirkpatrick for Bymini.Kasper for Joan Leslie and Robert David Morton.
Collection Restrictions:
Collection is open for research and access on site by appointment.
Collection Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Collection Citation:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection, 1928-1989, Archives Center, National Museum of American History.
See more items in:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0801-ref516

Fabled Fashions: Men's/Women's Knits Fall >71

Collection Creator:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Extent:
1 Reel (16mm color composite optical track print, 260 feet)
Container:
Reel OF801.4
Type:
Archival materials
Moving Images
Reels
Date:
circa 1971
Scope and Contents:
Notes: Men's knits: Brentwood, Drummond, Robert Bruce, Lord Jeff, Jockey.

Women's knits: Bananas, Great Times, Jane Irwill, Blairmoor. Orlon acrylic and Wintuk yarns of AOrlon.
Collection Restrictions:
Collection is open for research and access on site by appointment.
Collection Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Collection Citation:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection, 1928-1989, Archives Center, National Museum of American History.
See more items in:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0801-ref517

Quandry in Quebec

Collection Creator:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Extent:
1 Reel (16mm color composite optical track print, 190 feet)
Container:
Reel OF801.5
Type:
Archival materials
Moving Images
Reels
Date:
circa 1971
Scope and Contents:
Notes: Women's clothing by Bobbie Brooks. Men's clothing by Donegal.Wintuk yarns of Orlon acrylic and ADacron polyester. Filmed in cooperation with Le Chateau Frontenac [a luxury hotel in Quebec].

Note on box: M71-1139
Collection Restrictions:
Collection is open for research and access on site by appointment.
Collection Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Collection Citation:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection, 1928-1989, Archives Center, National Museum of American History.
See more items in:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0801-ref518

New York: Fashion Capitol of the World

Collection Creator:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Extent:
1 Reel (16mm color composite optical track print, 210 feet)
Container:
Reel OF801.6
Type:
Archival materials
Moving Images
Reels
Date:
circa 1972
Scope and Contents:
Producer: Produced for Dupont by Spectrum Associates.

Performers/Persons Appearing: Model - Samantha Jones

Notes: Holiday fashions by: Kasper for Joan Leslie, Oscar de La Renta Boutique, Shannon Rodgers for Jerry Silverman, Abe Schrader, Ole Borden for Rembrandt, Teal Traina, Chester Now by Chester Weinberg. Featuring Fabrics of Qiana nylon.

Note on Box: F-73-2073 Fashion Capitol
Collection Restrictions:
Collection is open for research and access on site by appointment.
Collection Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Collection Citation:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection, 1928-1989, Archives Center, National Museum of American History.
See more items in:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0801-ref519

A Fashion Odyssey

Collection Creator:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Extent:
1 Reel (16mm color composite optical track print, 175 feet)
Container:
Reel OF801.7
Type:
Archival materials
Moving Images
Reels
Date:
circa 1978
Scope and Contents:
Notes: Qiana nylon by DuPont. Filmed in cooperation with Halian Line.
Collection Restrictions:
Collection is open for research and access on site by appointment.
Collection Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Collection Citation:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection, 1928-1989, Archives Center, National Museum of American History.
See more items in:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0801-ref520

Sweatering Up

Collection Creator:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Extent:
1 Reel (16mm color composite optical track print, 175 feet)
Container:
Reel OF801.8
Type:
Archival materials
Moving Images
Reels
Date:
circa 1978
Scope and Contents:
Qiana nylon by DuPont. Filmed in cooperation with Halian Line.

Notes: No credits.

Note on box: 2122 DuPont
Collection Restrictions:
Collection is open for research and access on site by appointment.
Collection Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Collection Citation:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection, 1928-1989, Archives Center, National Museum of American History.
See more items in:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0801-ref521

Other Industrial Fashion Films

Collection Creator:
Costume, Division of (NMAH, SI).  Search this
Type:
Archival materials
Date:
circa 1970s
Collection Restrictions:
Collection is open for research and access on site by appointment.
Collection Rights:
Collection items available for reproduction, but the Archives Center makes no guarantees concerning copyright restrictions. Other intellectual property rights may apply. Archives Center cost-recovery and use fees may apply when requesting reproductions.
Collection Citation:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection, 1928-1989, Archives Center, National Museum of American History.
Identifier:
NMAH.AC.0801, Subseries 1.2
See more items in:
Division of Costume Audiovisual Collection
Archival Repository:
Archives Center, National Museum of American History
EDAN-URL:
ead_component:sova-nmah-ac-0801-ref522

Modify Your Search






or


Narrow By